“While many people are happy running their router until they encounter a problem, restarting your router once a month or so is a good idea,” says Seth Geftic, vice president of product marketing at Huntress. “It can depend on the quality of your router and its software, but memory leaks and stalled processes alongside various bugs can slow things down.

Here’s what to know about your router, and why it’s a good idea to schedule a regular restart.

Benefits of Regularly Restarting Your Router

Rebooting your router on a regular basis can bring a lot of advantages, says Jacob Kalvo, co-founder and CEO at Live Proxies. Here are the major ones.

It Updates Software and Security

Rebooting your router ensures it receives periodic software and firmware updates and patches from the manufacturer, which are important to keep the device functioning smoothly and secure it from potential hackers.

“It’s really important to keep an eye on your device’s security patches and make sure it’s up to date,” says Marcello Barros, global director at Hacker Rangers. “If a hacker gets into your network device, they could intercept your data or keep track of what you’re doing online.”

It Can Fix Connection Problems

A router reboot can also help with problems like slow speeds and lost connections. “It’s simply a means of rebooting the entire network to get rid of those minor glitches that might build up in it over time,” says Kalvo.

It Cleans the Cache

Rebooting your router will clean the cache, a collection of temporary files in the router’s memory. This will generally help enhance your internet connection’s performance and seed.

Dangers of Not Restarting Your Router

Slow Internet Connection

Over time, a router’s memory cache becomes cluttered with temporary data, which can cause an unstable internet connection. “That degraded performance could cause frustration due to slower internet speeds and poor connectivity,” says Geftic.

Compromised Security

Some older routers don’t automatically update firmware without a reboot, which leaves you vulnerable to hackers.

Shorter Device Lifespan

Periodic reboots can also help prolong the life of your router. “Minor issues with your router, such as overheating or congestion, may result in more significant connectivity failures or hardware wear over time if the router is not restarted,” says Kalvo.

How Often Should You Reboot Your Router?

You should reboot your router every month or so to maintain performance and security or when you notice a speed drop or have other connectivity issues.

“However, the frequency can depend on your usage habits and the reliability of your router,” says Kalvo. “For businesses or users with high internet demands, more frequent reboots may help maintain a consistently smooth network experience.”

How to Reboot Your Router

• Unplug the power cable from the router, or turn off the power button if your router has one;
• Wait 30 seconds to a minute;
• Plug it back in. “This brief pause will completely clear the memory of the router,” says Kalvo.
• Wait for the router to fully restart, which may take a few minutes.

Some routers have a reset button, which you can press to reboot them. However, says Kalvo, avoid confusing this with the factory reset option, which erases all of your settings.

Some routers also have apps where you can navigate through the settings to reset them, says Geftic. “This is helpful if your router’s power source is inconvenient to reach,” he says.

Should I Change My Router Password?

Probably. Routers usually come with a default password that’s well-known and easy to find online. “That’s why it’s super important to change it to something stronger and harder to guess,” says Barros.

Even if your internet provider sets up a strong default password, it’s still a good idea to change it, he says. It’s also a good idea to change your router setting from WPS to WPA.

“WPS makes it easier for devices to connect to the network without needing a security password, but that makes it less secure and more prone to attacks, so a lot of experts recommend turning off WPS,” he says. “WPA, on the other hand, is a security protocol that keeps your Wi-Fi safe, only letting authorized devices connect, so it’s a much safer option.”

If you do set your router to WPA, Barros recommends using the third version (WPA3), which has the fewest security issues.

About the Experts

• Jacob Kalvo is a tech and cybersecurity expert and co-founder and CEO at Live Proxies, a proxy and web intelligence company.
• Seth Geftic is vice president of product marketing at Huntress, and has almost two decades of cybersecurity experience working across endpoint, MDR, phishing and identity issues.
• Marcello Barros is an expert in cybersecurity with more than three decades of IT experience, and is the global director at Hacker Rangers, a company that fosters cybersecurity practices within businesses by using gaming techniques.

The post How Often Should You Reboot Your Router? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Restarting your phone can help disrupt malware attacks, but beyond better security, there are some other perks to rebooting regularly. Ahead, we share expert advice on how often to restart your phone and the benefits of doing so.

Benefits of Regularly Restarting Your Phone

It boosts security

For many of us, our phones are a treasure trove of personal information. Restarting your phone is a practice that can help keep all that information protected. According to the NSA, a restart can thwart spear phishing and zero-click exploits. They recommend restarting your phone once a week. Considering it only takes a couple of minutes, it’s a very small task for improved security.

Just remember that this is not a magic bullet against security threatsyou’ll still want to take other measures like setting strong passwords and updating your phone. The latter is an important one, as Jake Moore, Global Cybersecurity Advisor for ESET explains, “If people are regularly updating their devices when fresh operating system versions are released, devices will remain healthy and protected. Zero-click malware is a recurring issue for both Apple and Android operating systems, but it is generally identified and addressed quickly.”

So while restarting your phone can help, don’t let it lull you into a false sense of security. Make sure you keep your phone updated, too.

It improves performance

Security is important, but Moore explains another reason to regularly restart your phone is it will improve your day-to-day experience. “Rebooting phones and tablets can improve performance, connectivity problems and other glitches that may occur,” says Moore. There’s a reason why we turn devices off and on again when there’s an issue. A system restart can really help.

When we use our phones, a lot goes on in the background. Even if you close apps, they can still be running processes or leaving information fragments behind, taking up precious memory space. Restarting your phone shuts things down completely, which can help improve memory and speed.

It improves battery life

The more programs and apps a device runs, the more it will drain the battery. Shut it all off by restarting your phone. This process completely closes out apps, so you don’t have as much stuff running in the background, which can mean a slightly longer battery life.

Issues That Not Restarting Your Phone Can Create

Sluggish performance

Whether it’s due to apps running behind-the-scenes or temporary memory hogging your phone space, sluggish performance can be one consequence of never restarting your phone. Turning your device off and on again provides a clean slate for your phone to run a little smoother.

Unexpected battery draining

Is your phone dying faster than usual? One of the many processes explained above could be a possible cause. Restart your phone and see if battery life improves before trying other fixes.

How Often Should You Restart Your Phone?

As recommended by the NSA, restart your week at least once a week to improve security. You can also benefit from these other performance perks. You can restart your phone more often if you’d like, but once a week is an easy schedule to commit to.

How to Restart Phone

iPhone

To restart a recent iPhone model (iPhone X or later), follow these steps:

• Press and hold one of the volume buttons on the left side and the side button on the right side at the same time.
• When the power-off slider appears on the screen, drag the slider and then wait at least 30 seconds for the phone to power off.
• Press and hold the side button on the right side to turn your phone back on.

To learn how to restart earlier models, visit the Apple website.

Samsung Galaxy

To restart a Samsung Galaxy phone:

• Press and hold the volume down button and the side button (or power button) at the same time.
• An options menu will appear. From the options, tap “Restart.”

It’s also possible to set a Samsung Galaxy phone to automatically restart (and you can set it to a weekly schedule); follow the process outlined on the Samsung website.

About the Expert

• Jake Moore is a security specialist and the global cybersecurity advisor at ESET, a global digital security company. He has over two decades of experience in dealing with cybercrime, digital forensics, and cybersecurity.

The post This Is How Often You Should Restart Your Phone appeared first on Family Handyman.

“I like to think of light switch covers as the room’s jewelry, subtly acting as an elevated way to make a functional part of your home feel unique and special,” Scheck says.

Ahead, Scheck explains how something as simple as upgrading switch covers can make a big impact. Then, I’ll walk you through swapping them out it’s easy! I’m an electrician, but you don’t need any fancy tools or knowledge. You do need to be safe, though, so get ready to turn off that circuit breaker.

Why You Should Change Your Switch Covers

A better question is: Why not? Upgrading switch covers is a great way to express your style, making the space feel truly reflective of your home’s character, Scheck says. “I love seeing how surprised clients are when they see the finish and appreciate what a difference a light switch upgrade makes.”

It’s also important to swap out switch covers if yours are broken. When I bought my house a few years ago, a couple of the switch plates were cracked and barely hanging on by the screws. Even if a cracked plate seems minor, it’s an electrical hazard. If the plate falls off, the electrical connections within the switch box will be exposed.

Switch Cover Decor Options

A trip to your closest home improvement center might make you think your options are limited. It’s time to rethink that. “We’ve come a long way from traditional plastic light switch covers,” Scheck says. “There are now a plethora of manufacturers creating beautiful switch plate options that can fit nearly any design aesthetic.” So think outside the big-box store and search online for new colors and styles.

“When it comes to aesthetics, the color of your walls along with the overall design plan will give you a pretty good idea of the elements you want to complement,” Scheck says. “There’s so much variety out there; just make sure the cover feels like a charming addition rather than a distraction.

“Most of the rooms in my home have decorative light switch covers in either brass or matte black finishes, which have been such a fun and simple way to personalize spaces,” Scheck says. “There are plenty of custom options available with a variety of unique functions like dimmers, toggles, and various controls.”

How To Swap Out A Light Cover

Ready to do this? Upgrading switch covers takes just a few minutes. But “[f]irst and foremost, think about the practicality of the switch to ensure that the function is suitable to the room’s needs,” Scheck says. Fiddling with designer knobs in a laundry room? No thanks.

Once you have the right covers for the right rooms, here’s what to do:

1. Read the instructions. I’m a big proponent of reading the paperwork, even when you’re doing something simple like upgrading switch covers. I know electricians who don’t, and it’s not a good habit to get into.
2. Turn off the power. Find the circuit breaker that controls the light switch and shut it off. (Just turning off the light won’t do itthe power coming into the switch is always on, even when the switch is off.)
3. Remove the switch plate. Use a small, flat screwdriver to carefully unscrew the plate. Be ready to catch the tiny screw(s) in your hand. If you have a screwless-style face, pop off the external plate by the edges, then unscrew the base plate.
4. Verify the power is off. Use a non-contact voltage tester to test the circuit attached to the screws on the switch. Unless you’re replacing the switch itself, you won’t need to touch the circuit at all, but it’s still important that it’s off in case your screwdriver slips.
5. Align cover plate. Hold the switch plate up to the switch and align the screw hole(s) to the holes in the switch. Insert the provided screws (be careful, they are tiny!).
6. Level as you tighten screws. Hold a torpedo level along the side of the plate, or just eyeball the placement, and tighten the screws (don’t overtighten, or the plate could crack). Metal levels will leave a mark on painted walls, so wrap with electrical tape if that’s a concern.
7. Attach finish plate. If you have a snap-on cover plate, attach it over the base plate and you’re done.
8. Finish screws neatly. Align any visible screw slots vertically or horizontally (I always go vertically) for a neat appearance.

About the Expert

Audrey Scheck is the founder and principal designer at Audrey Scheck Design in Austin, Texas. After designing and remodeling her own home in Los Angeles, Scheck moved back to her home state of Texas to start her own firm. Now one of the top interior designers in Austin, Scheck’s residential and commercial projects can be found across the country, showcasing multiple styles, scopes and budgets.

Source

• Audrey Scheck, founder and principal designer, Audrey Scheck Design; email interview, Nov. 13, 2024

The post How To Upgrade Light Switch Covers appeared first on Family Handyman.

So, are you a Grinch or a Griswold? Everyone’s favorite lovable loser, Clark Griswold of Christmas Vacation fame, shut down the electric grid with his outlandish display. Ahead, I’ll walk you through the steps to figure out just how much your holiday decorations’ electricity cost will set you back.

How Much Electricity Will My Inflatables Use and Cost?

It depends on the size of the inflatables and what you pay for electricity, but it’s not much, and you can use a standard formula to find out. You’ll need to know the following:

• The input watts (W) of the motor. Watts are a unit of electrical power.
• How long you keep the motor running per day, in hours (h).
• The price of electricity per kilowatt-hour (kWh).

To find the watts, look on the power adapter or motor nameplate of your inflatable. You’ll see both input and output information. To determine the cost of electricity, use the input numbers. If watts aren’t listed, find the amperes (amps), which measure electrical current flow, and multiply by 120 volts to get the watts.

As an example, a 6-foot-tall inflatable Santa on sale right now at Target draws 0.6 amps (A) at 120 volts (V). So, just multiply the numbers together to get watts (0.6A X 120V = 72W). For comparison, my friend’s 3-foot-tall pink pig inflatable draws a puny 0.3 amps and 36 watts, while a giant abominable snowman will draw more.

How much does it cost to keep Santa inflated eight hours a day? Look at your electric bill and find what you’re charged we’ll use the November 2024 national average of $0.176 per kilowatt-hour. Divide Santa’s 72 watts by 1000 to convert to kilowatts (0.072 kW). Then, multiply the power in kilowatts, the time in hours and the price of electricity together: 0.072kW X 8h X $0.176/kWh = $0.1014. That’s about ten cents a day, or three dollars a month.

Pretty cheap, right? Of course, if you have ten Santas rather than one, and they’re inflated from Thanksgiving to January 6 (when you’re supposed to take them down), you’re looking at about $45.

How Much Electricity Will My Holiday Lights Use and Cost?

Again, it depends on how Griswold-y you get around the holidays, what kind of lights you use (incandescent or light-emitting diodes, aka LED) and your electricity price. But you can break it down the same way you did for the inflatables.

LED

Light-emitting diodes are extremely energy efficient, as much as 90% more efficient than incandescents. Check the tag on one end to find the watts or amps, then convert to kilowatts and plug in the numbers.

My tiny Charlie Brown Christmas tree holds exactly one 25-foot, 100-bulb mini LED light string, which uses a paltry 6.48 watts (0.00648 kW). Using the same formula as above power X time X price my tree costs less than a penny per day to light for 8 hours. Even if you have a normal-sized, 6-foot tree with six strings of lights, it’s still barely a nickel a day.

Incandescent

Incandescent holiday lights are still around, and they’re much cheaper to buy than LED. But they use more energy, and you can’t string as many of them together before you hit the limit listed on the package. (The listing organization UL, which certifies lights and thousands of other products, restricts end-to-end connections of holiday lights.)

A 25-foot, 100-light mini light string uses about 41 watts, which works out to $0.06 of electricity per 8-hour day or $1.73 per month. Larger C7 and C9 strings, at 5 to 7 watts per bulb, drive up the cost: A 25-light string of 5-watt C7 bulbs (125 watts total) costs $0.18 per day for electricity or $5.28 for the month.

How Much Would Covering My Whole House in Lights Cost?

If you use LED lights, and I suggest that you do, it will be much cheaper, but it’s still going to set you back. As a rough example, and because it sounds fun, let’s break down Clark Griswold’s famous Christmas Vacation house.

In the movie, Clark says he put up “two hundred and fifty strands of lights, one hundred individual bulbs per strand, for a grand total of twenty-five thousand individual miniature imported Italian twinkle lights.” (Yes, I do watch this movie often.)

So, how much would 25,000 lights cost to run? In 1989, the year the movie came out, every single light would have been incandescent, so we’ll calculate that first.

Incandescent

Clark says he uses 250 strands of mini lights, and we know mini incandescent lights use about 41 watts per strand.

At today’s electricity price, running 6 hours per night, the cost would be $10.82 per day 250 x 0.041kW x 6h x $0.176/kWh = $10.82. That’s nearly $325 per month. For mini lights! If you use C7 strands at 5 watts per bulb, the cost skyrockets to $132 per day and $4000 per month.

And that’s not considering all the extra circuits you’d have to put in to make this a safe installation. (Please don’t plug them all into the same receptacle outlet like Clark did.)

LED

Your electricity costs will be dramatically lower if you decide to recreate the Griswold home with LEDs. But LEDs are pricier to buy, so you’ll be out a lot more upfront.

As for the electricity? My 100-light mini string from earlier uses 6.48 watts, so plugging 250 of them into the formula works out to $1.71 per day, or $51.32 per month.

For larger C7 lights (at approximately 2.5 watts per 25-light strand), Clark would have needed a thousand strands. Using these lights will set you back $2.64 a day and $79 a month.

Safety Considerations

The electricity cost of your holiday decorations is only half the story. Before you start stapling thousands of lights to your roof, think about safetynot just electrical safety, but ladder safety as well.

Follow manufacturer instructions about how many light strands you can string together on one circuit, which must be protected by a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). Overloading circuits with too many lights can trip your breaker, damage your lights or even start a fire. This is more of a problem with incandescents because the watts add up quickly. Even with LEDs, you may need extra circuits if you’re planning a holiday light show with music and dancing reindeer.

Examine your lights before putting them up. Replace broken bulbs, and discard strings that have exposed wiring. If half or all of the string doesn’t work, try fixing them with a Christmas light tester or changing the fuse. Clark stapled his lights with metal staples a bad idea. Use plastic holders to avoid short circuits, and if you have any questions about circuit capacity or other safety issues, call a licensed electrician.

Sources:

• Bureau of Labor Statistics: “Average Energy Prices for the United States, Regions, Census Divisions, and Selected Metropolitan Areas”
• Energy.gov: “Lighting Choices to Save You Money”
• Script Slug: “National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation”

The post Will Your Holiday Decorations Make for a Big Electric Bill? A Cost Breakdown appeared first on Family Handyman.

HVAC pro Simon Bernath explains it like this: “In the summer, you mainly want to feel the breeze and so you should set the fan to ‘push’ air down. In the winter months, you’re mainly trying to create gentle air circulation but without feeling a breeze.” There’s a catch, however, as contractor Ryan Meagher points out: The fan has to have angled blades.

Most ceiling fans do have angled blades, so if you’re wondering how to get the most out of yours, here’s what you need to know.

Does the Direction of Your Ceiling Fan Matter?

Ceiling fan direction can make a big difference. “You can think about this similarly to how an airplane creates lift to fly,” explains Meagher. “If the fan is moving in one direction it will create a lifting effect for the air that is passing through the blades. If you switch the direction it will create a downward flow of air.”

The cooling effect of a ceiling fan during the hot summer months is obvious, but not everyone appreciates the warming effect it can have in the winter. In each season, the boost in air circulation can help keep a room comfortable while saving on energy costs. In our house, we run the ceiling fan while burning wood in the stove, and the fan circulates the warm air throughout the house (in fact, sometimes it gets too hot). In summer, the cool breeze the fan creates is a welcome respite from the sometimes oppressive heat.

• Remember: Ceiling fan direction only matters if the fan has angled blades.

What Direction Should Your Ceiling Fan Spin in the Summer?

“In the summer,” says Bernath, “you mainly want to feel the breeze, so you should set the fan to ‘push’ air down, usually with the blades spinning counterclockwise.” The counterclockwise direction is standard but doesn’t necessarily apply to every fan because it depends on which direction the blades are angled.

To be more general, you want the fan to spin with the leading edges of the blades higher than the trailing edges. This way, air will flow from the tops of the blades down toward the floor.

What Direction Should Your Ceiling Fan Spin in the Winter?

Conversely, a ceiling fan needs to spin in a “reverse direction” during the winter months, which in most cases is clockwise. Because warm air rises, the air near the ceiling can be three to four degrees warmer than air near the floor. A ceiling fan that spins with the leading edges of the blades lower than the trailing edges will draw cooler air up and force warmer air near the ceiling down and out toward walls.

Does It Matter Which Room?

A ceiling fan works most efficiently if you use it in a central room because some of the warm or cool air it generates can circulate from there to other parts of the house. However, you can install a ceiling fan in any room, and you can adjust the ceiling fan direction to derive the most benefit, depending on the room’s characteristics and your heat source.

HVAC pro John Jordan explains: “In large open spaces with high ceilings, the clockwise winter setting is particularly effective because it prevents heat from being trapped too high above living areas. Conversely, in smaller rooms or spaces without strong central heating, you might find that keeping the fan on low in counterclockwise mode even in winter can help distribute localized heat from space heaters or sunlight more efficiently. Additionally, in humid climates, running the fan counterclockwise year-round can enhance evaporation and cooling without the need for constant A/C adjustments.”

How to Change the Direction of a Ceiling Fan

Most types of ceiling fans have a switch or chain on the motor that lets you change the direction from summer mode to winter mode and back again. You will most likely need a ladder to reach it. Always make sure your fan is turned off and completely still before getting on the ladder.

More upscale models come with remote controls that have buttons that let you change the spin direction and speed of the fan. It’s also possible that the wall switch that controls the fan is directional with three settings: one for forward, one for reverse and one for off.

If you have an older fan that doesn’t run in reverse, you’re not necessarily out of options. You may be able to reverse the pitch of the fan blades, using a wrench or screwdriver, but that depends on whether your fan design allows for this adjustment.

About the Experts

• Simon Bernath is the founder of FurnacePrices.ca, which has been providing information about HVAC systems and home energy use to homeowners and small businesses across North America for over 10 years.
• Ryan Meagher is the Business Development Manager for BVM Contracting, a Toronto-based company founded by his father.
• John Jordan is the President of Integrity Heating & Cooling Inc., which has been serving the Chicago area for over 25 years.

The post Which Way Should a Ceiling Fan Spin? appeared first on Family Handyman.

What Is a Space Heater?

A space heater is a portable heating device commonly used to warm smaller, otherwise unheated spaces in a home. Most are electric, but fuel-burning models that use kerosene, propane or natural gas are also available. Space heaters can also serve as supplementary heat sources to warm a specific room without raising the entire home’s temperature.

Are Space Heaters Safe?

Space heaters are a great option for that stubborn corner of your home that just won’t get warm, and “as long as they’re properly used, shouldn’t pose a safety issue,” Moore says. However, space heater safety is a serious business, and if not used correctly, space heaters can be very dangerous.

Dangers Associated With Space Heaters

• Fire hazard: Space heaters placed near flammable materials like curtains or bedding can easily ignite and cause a fire. If a space heater is unattended and tips over, it can also quickly lead to a fire.
• Electric shock risk: Damaged or exposed wires can cause electric shock.
• Carbon monoxide poisoning: Fuel-burning heaters release carbon monoxide, an odorless, poisonous gas and must be used in well-ventilated spaces.
• Burn risk: Space heater surfaces can become extremely hot and cause serious burns if not handled properly.

Tips for Using Space Heaters Safely

Always practice these tips for optimum space heater safety.

Follow the instructions

Your space heater should have a label that shows it was tested in a recognized laboratory. Before using the heater, read and understand the manufacturer’s instructions and warning labels.

Use for supplemental heat only

A space heater is meant to provide supplemental heat only. They should never be used to warm linens, cook food or dry clothing. While they may work to warm up smaller rooms in your home, they are not very energy-efficient appliances.

Make sure your smoke alarms work

“Always check that your smoke and carbon monoxide detectors are operating,” Moore says. This is essential whether you’re using a space heater or not, but given the risk of fire associated with portable, plug-in heaters, it’s an especially critical task.

Check the cord

Check the space heater’s cord for cracks and make sure the plug isn’t broken. When plugging in, make sure the connection is secure. Loose connections are inherently dangerous and can be a fire hazard.

Don’t leave a space heater unattended

When leaving a room, turn the space heater off. Also, turn the heater off when sleeping. “Running a space heater while you’re asleep is the same as leaving it unattended,” Moore says, “I don’t recommend it.” Never let pets or children play too close to the heater to avoid burns and prevent them from accidentally tipping it over.

Keep it out of the way

Keep your space heater in a corner or an area of the room where people aren’t walking so that nobody trips on it. Not only is it dangerous for the person walking, it could result in the heater getting too close to flammable materials.

Plug directly into an outlet

Space heaters draw considerable electric current, which can shock you and overheat extension cords and power strips. “Always plug your space heater directly into an outlet, never an extension cord,” Moore says.

Keep space heaters away from flammable material

Space heaters should be kept at least three feet away from anything that can burn, including rugs, clothing, bedding and paper. They’re best used on a flat, uncovered floor without carpeting. Don’t run the cord under a rug, either.

Look for safety features

An easy way to increase space heater safety is to look for a space heater with built-in safety features like a tip-over switch, overheat sensor and touch sensor. These features can help prevent overheating, which can result in a fire.

FAQ

Can you run a space heater all night?

Unless you are awake all night and in the same room as the space heater, you cannot run it all night. “Nothing happens when you’re watching the heater; it’s always when it’s unattended that bad things happen,” Moore says.

How long can you run a space heater?

Moore recommends reading the manufacturer’s instructions for guidance on how long you can run a particular space heater, as each one is different.

What is the safest spot for a space heater?

The safest spot for a space heater is at least three feet away from any flammable materials in any direction, preferably on an uncarpeted floor in the corner of a room.

About the Expert

• Ryan Moore is Fire Chief for the District No. 2 Fire Department in South Hadley, Massachusetts, where he has served for 18 years.

The post A Guide to Space Heater Safety appeared first on Family Handyman.

It appears to be an affordable solution that’s easy to install. One commenter on the post wrote, “This is what they do in Korea. It doesn’t look great (and it’s not fun not having a window to look through), but it definitely keeps some heat in!”

On its face, it seems like a pretty good, frugal solution. But does bubble wrap as insulation actually work? Here’s what we found out.

Bubble Wrap as Insulation Hack

This hack is pretty simple: just cut a piece of bubble wrap to the size of your window and place the bubble side toward the glass. The person in the above post sprayed it with water, which caused it to stick to the window. You could also use tape to hold it there.

The Glass Doctor recommends using bubble wrap with large bubbles and little space between them.

Beyond insulation, the bubble wrap creates a pleasant soft light and obscures the windows for better privacy. On the downside, it makes it so you can’t see clearly from the window.

Will Bubble Wrap Work as Insulation on Windows?

In theory, yes, bubble wrap works as insulation. Adding airspace should help insulate. According to How To Go Solar, using bubble wrap as insulation improves their efficiency by 50% or more on single-glazed windows and up to 20% on double-glazed ones. Build It Solar also had promising results.

But Randy Huckstadt, an HVAC Expert with JustAnswer.com disagrees. “The problem with this whole concept is that it is not an airtight seal. Therefore, any air or any temperature making it through the window makes it right around the bubble wrap,” he says.

Another potential problem he sees with it is that if it’s freezing outside, spraying water on glass comes with the risk of cracking it, especially “because folks are typically doing this because they have poorly rated or single-pane windows,” he says.

However, others say that they have used this trick, and it does help. It’s a common practice in Korea, for example, where it’s called ‘air cap.’ The Institute for Basic Science in Korea states on its website: “If you want to make your home warmer in winter, you can cover panes of glass with bubble wrap [which] can be applied to glass if you first make the glass moist with water. They go on to recommend repurposing bubble wrap from a move, or from delivery packages.

Others in the Reddit post thread supported this method, too. One wrote, “We do this on some of our windows every year. They are single pane. It definitely helps. You can feel the difference one they’re up. If we’re having guests over we could easily take it down for the day.”

Window Insulation Alternatives

Another relatively affordable option as an alternative to bubble wrap is an insulation kit with an R-value rating for windows. These can typically be found at hardware stores and building centers. Here’s how to install them.

First, make sure your weather stripping is in good shape and check the caulk around the exterior and interior your windows for leaks. For a more permanent solution, try interior storm windows, which are more expensive but should last for decades.

Whatever you choose, remember that it will be far more effective if it makes a seal around the window.

About the Expert

• Randy Huckstadt is an HVAC expert with JustAnswer.com and is an authorized mechanic for Haward Service and Warranty Center.

Sources

• The Korean Institute for Basic Science, “Living in Korea.”
• The Glass Doctor, “DIY Project Insulate Your Windows with Bubble Wrap.”
• How to Go Solar, “The Truth about Bubble Wrap Window Insulation,” October 13, 202.
• Build it Solar, blog from Oct. 24, 2005.

The post Does Bubble Wrap Actually Work as Window Insulation? Here’s the Deal appeared first on Family Handyman.

Of course, the electrician in me now understands, and cares, about energy usage and the effects of humidity on building materials. But does that mean I can’t leave a window open in winter on occasion? Can it ever be a good idea? And does the weather play a role? Ahead, I talked to experts in indoor air quality and heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC), as well as a scientist from the National Weather Service, to find out.

Benefits of Leaving a Window Open in the Winter

Let’s start with the pros. If you’re a little claustrophobic like me, you’ll like this section.

According to Allen Rathey, director of the Indoor Health Council, today’s houses are much more airtight due to higher energy efficiency standards than they were in past decades. That means less air exchange between inside and outside, so opening a window in the winter can offer several benefits.

• Improved air quality: Opening a window can reduce stale air, plus indoor air pollutants like carbon dioxide, vapors from cleaning products and cooking fuel byproducts.
• Humidity control: Dry winter air can do a number on your skin and lungs. “Fresh air can help regulate indoor humidity levels, preventing excessive dryness,” says Brad Roberson, president of Aire Serv heating and air conditioning.
• Odor removal: Even with a range hood or exhaust fan, cooking smells permeate every nook and cranny of your home. If you’ve ever lived over a restaurant, you know what I’m talking about.
• Mental well-being: Darkness at 5 p.m. can be a downer, but opening a window may help. “Some people find fresh air invigorating,” Roberson says, “and it can help improve your mood and overall sense of well-being.”

Cons of Leaving a Window Open in the Winter

The biggest con of leaving a window open in the winter is the loss of heat. When you open a window, your HVAC unit eventually kicks on to replace the conditioned air that escapes. That could reduce the energy efficiency of your unit and raise your energy bill, Roberson says, especially if you leave a window open near the thermostat.

Leaving a window open during the winter also wastes energy, even if you’re not so concerned with your utility bills. Unless your home is completely powered by solar and wind, your HVAC is consuming a dwindling supply of fossil fuels.

Should You Leave a Window Open Year-Round?

“Leaving a window open year-round is generally not advisable,” Roberson says. “In the winter, it’s usually more energy-efficient to keep windows closed to conserve heat, while in the summer, you might want to open windows to ventilate your home.”

But, “if you’re trying to improve indoor air quality, control humidity, or simply enjoy the benefits of fresh air, opening a window occasionally may be helpful,” Roberson says. “The key is to strike a balance, ensuring that it doesn’t lead to excessive heat loss or discomfort. Using a window briefly during milder winter days can help achieve the benefits without causing your HVAC system to work excessively hard.”

Should I Leave My Window Open in the Winter?

It’s up to you, though experts generally advise being judicious. “There is no ‘one-size fits all’ when it comes to our indoor spaces,” Rathey says. Roberson adds: “You can leave a window open in the winter, but it’s important to be selective about when and where.”

Here are some situations that might warrant cracking a window:

• In stuffy or humid rooms: It’s best to keep indoor relative humidity between 30% and 50% to keep mold at bay. “An inexpensive temperature and relative humidity meter can help show impacts from a slightly opened window, and flag you to close it when too much damp/cold air enters,” Rathey says.
• When outdoor air quality is good: Air pollution contains harmful volatile organic compounds (VOCs), dilution of which “may reduce impacts to those with chemical sensitivities, unless the outdoor air is more polluted than inside,” Rathey says. Check your local air quality index at AirNow.gov to make sure.
• On sunny and warm(er) days: Give your HVAC a break by taking advantage of good weather and natural heat from the sun. If you’re sensitive to airborne allergens and dust, ventilating may reduce these contaminants, Rathey says.
• If your windows have locks: “An open window can be an entry point for intruders,” Roberson says, “especially when you’re asleep or not at home.” Rathey says putting sash locks on your windows, allowing them to open just a few inches, can mitigate security concerns.

FAQ

Should you leave windows open during extreme weather?

No. It’s a myth that you should open windows during tornadoes, and Kate Abshire with the National Weather Service (NWS) says that wind and hail from thunderstorms can cause glass to shatter, so it’s best to stay away from windows entirely instead of wasting time trying to open them. In rare cases, lightning can enter older homes through cracks around windows.

Can you leave the window open with a dehumidifier?

It’s not a good idea. Dehumidifiers are intended to remove moisture from confined spaces. Bringing in a continuous supply of fresh air from outside, especially if you live in a humid climate, will cause the dehumidifier to constantly run.

How much does it cost to leave a window open?

It depends on your climate, the size of your home, and the type, size and efficiency of your HVAC system. But, the cost can be significant. As a rough example, let’s say you have a 3-ton unit that uses 3,000 watts (3 kilowatts) per hour. Using the October 2024 national average cost for electricity ($0.177 per kilowatt-hour), if your HVAC kicked on just one extra hour a day, your electricity bill would rise approximately $200 per year.

About the Experts

• Kate Abshire is the acting NWS Severe Weather Program Manager in the Severe, Fire, Public, and Winter Weather Services Branch of the National Oceanographic and Atmospheric (NOAA)/National Weather Service.
• Allen Rathey is the director of the Indoor Health Council, a consortium of cleaning professionals and health experts dedicated to healthy indoor spaces. Rathey was previously the president of the Housekeeping Channel, The Healthy House Institute and the Healthy Facilities Institute.
• Brad Roberson is a heating, ventilation and air conditioning expert and the president of Aire Serv, a trusted name in the field of heating and air conditioning installation, maintenance, and repair with more than 200 locations across the United States and Canada.

Sources

• AirNow.gov: “U.S. Air Quality Index”
• Energy.gov: “Estimating Appliance and Home Electronic Energy Use”
• Environmental Protection Agency: “Care for Your Air: A Guide to Indoor Air Quality”
• U.S Bureau of Labor Statistics: “Average Energy Prices for the United States, Regions, Census Divisions, and Selected Metropolitan Areas”

The post Should You Leave a Window Open in the Winter? All the Pros and Cons appeared first on Family Handyman.

With a national average of $3,500 to install a new water heater, taking the time to maintain yours is well worth the effort. Keep reading to learn why flushing your water heater is so important and what happens if you don’t with tips from Michelle Law of Blue Frog Plumbing and Drain.

What Does Flushing Your Water Heater Do?

The primary purpose of flushing your water heater is to remove any sediment or mineral buildup that has accumulated over time. Most of the impurities in the water are collected by the anode rod, a metal rod inside the tank, to spare the water heater from corrosion. However, “some sediment still makes its way to the bottom of the tank, and flushing it clears the rest out,” Law says.

What Happens If You Don’t Flush Your Water Heater?

Neglecting to flush your water heater regularly can lead to sediment and sludge buildup at the bottom of the tank. This TikTok video by @plumbersplunger shows just how much debris can accumulate in an unflushed water heater, which can cause the tank to corrode, leak and fail prematurely. “The debris will actually begin to eat away at the tank,” Law says.

@theplumbersplunger Cutting open a water heater tank to see what is on the inside. Talking about water filtration and how to find out what is in your water. #plumbing #water #fyp original sound – The Plumbers Plunger

Sediment can also coat the heating element, reducing its efficiency and potentially causing it to overheat. Law notes that this issue may not occur with all water heaters and will depend on how the heating element is designed.

Law also points out that if you’ve never flushed your water heateror haven’t done so in the last two yearsnow may not be the best time to start.

“The sediment has been sitting at the bottom of the tank, helping to seal any corrosion or small holes,” she explains. “Disturbing it can dislodge that buildup, potentially causing leaks.”

Can Not Flushing Your Water Heater Be Dangerous?

While neglecting to flush your water heater can cause problems, it’s not dangerous. Law points out that if it were, most of us would be in trouble. “The reality is, most people don’t flush their water heater. It’s just one of those maintenance tasks that doesn’t get done,” she says.

Other Important Water Heater Maintenance

Perform these tasks annually:

• Check the temperature setting: It should be between 120 and 130 degrees to prevent scalding and improve efficiency.
• Look for leaks: Check the floor around the water heater for any wet areas or puddles.

Consider having these maintenance tasks performed by a pro:

• Inspect the anode rod: “The anode rod is the sacrificial element in a water heater,” Law says, “It will corrode and needs to be replaced periodically.”
• Check the venting system: Gas water heaters produce carbon monoxide, a dangerous gas that must be properly vented to the outside. Regularly inspect that the vent pipe remains clear and unobstructed.
• Test the pressure valve: This pressure relief valve can become clogged or stuck over time. Check it regularly to ensure it opens when needed.

About the Expert

• Michelle Law is an apprentice plumber at Blue Frog Plumbing and Drain, a full-service residential and commercial plumbing company in Springfield, Massachusetts.

Source

USA Today: How Much Does Water Heater Installation Cost? 2024 Guide. (2024)

The post The Gross Truth About What Builds Up in Your Neglected Water Heater appeared first on Family Handyman.

As an electrician, I’ve dealt with tons of broken lights, and the worst ones are outside, where water or dampness caused the lightbulb and the lamp socket to fuse or rust due to corrosion. That’s why the National Electrical Code (NEC) requires outdoor lights to be approved for wet or damp locations, depending on the exposure level.

Got a stuck light bulb? Ahead, we have multiple proven methods to help.

Turn Off the Power

Before trying any of the methods below, turn off the light’s power. Find the circuit breaker for the light, shut it off, and confirm there’s no power to the bulb base with a non-contact voltage detector. To use the tester, first verify it works by holding it to a known live circuit. Test inside the bulb base. If it beeps or lights up, try another breaker.

Once you’re certain the circuit is off, test the voltage tester again on the same live circuit as before to verify that it didn’t malfunction.

Wear Safety Gear

Glass shards from a broken lightbulb will slice right through traditional work gloves, so pull on some heavy-duty leather (or cut-resistant) ones. Safety glasses are a must, too, especially if the bulb is really stuck or you’re working on a light above your head. You never know when glass or a piece of metal might go flying.

How To Remove a Broken Light Bulb

Ready to get that broken bulb out? After you’ve turned off the power (seriously, as an electrician I can’t stress that enough!), put on gloves and carefully remove the glass shards around the base. Then, check out these fool-proof methods for removing a broken bulb.

Needle-nose pliers

This is my go-to because when it works, it’s by far the quickest and easiest way to remove a broken light bulb that’s stuck in the screw shell. There are a few ways to do it. If you still have the filament sticking up, grab the filament base with the pliers and turn counterclockwise. If the filament breaks off or the base doesn’t budge, grip the outer shell with the pliers and try again.

Finally, if that doesn’t work, stick the pliers inside the base and open them as wide as you can. This will put pressure on the metal screw shell. Keep up the pressure and turn the pliers. For better gripping strength, wrap the jaws with a few turns of electrical tape to get more traction when you turn.

Epoxy putty

Epoxy putty is a two-part, moldable putty that hardens into a solid when activated in your hands. It comes in a tube, and contains a resin and a hardener. Both components start out soft and pliable, like clay, but when you combine the two, they react to form a rock-hard compound that’s primarily used for repairing gaps and cracks, but you can use it to remove a broken lightbulb.

Put on gloves, then pull off a chunk of putty and start kneading the two components together in your hands. Often, the resin and hardener are two different colors, making it easy to see when the epoxy is fully combined and ready to use. Roll it into a ball and stuff it into the screw shell, filling the entire hole with a little bit sticking out the top.

Allow the putty to dry for the amount of time recommended in the directions, but before it dries all the way, take a flat screwdriver and make an indentation in the top. When the putty hardens, you’ll use this slot to insert the screwdriver and turn the bulb. Finish the drying process, insert the screwdriver, and unscrew the bulb.

Hot-glue gun

If you’re a crafter, you probably have a hot glue gun in the house, and you can use it to remove a broken light bulb. Grab a dowel or stick that will fit inside the screw shell, about a half-inch to an inch or so around. Blob some hot glue on the end, and stick it in the light bulb base. Fill the void with more glue, then allow it to cool and harden.

When the stick is nice and stuck, in about five or ten minutes, turn the stick and unscrew the bulb.

Light bulb extractor

This handy little device costs about ten bucks at a hardware store or online. Broken bulb extractors have a rubber tip that grips the inside of the base, allowing you to turn and free the broken bulb. Just stick it over the filament and give it a twist. The extractor has two different tips, so you can free small and regular-sized bulbs, and it has a threaded base for adding a telescoping pole for lights that are up on the ceiling.

Potato

You say potato, I say you can use a potato to unscrew a stuck lightbulb. Yes, really. This would not be my go-to since it will get potato all over your light, and other methods are better, but it can work in a pinch. The idea is simple: cut a potato in half and impale it on the filament and metal housing. Use the potato as a handle, and unscrew the bulb base. If you have nothing but the outer shell left, try whittling the potato down as you see in the picture, then jamming it into the light bulb base instead.

If you don’t have a potato, try a bar of soap.

The post Safely Remove a Broken Light Bulb From the Socket appeared first on Family Handyman.

HVAC technician WG Hickman explains: “A male-to-male cord has exposed prongs on both ends, meaning one end would always be “live” when plugged in, posing serious shock and fire risks.” In other words, such a cord is a serious fire and electrocution risk.

Here’s why electricians call this type of extension cord a “suicide cord.”

Are Male-to-Male Electrical Cords Made?

Unfortunately, they are. You can buy one on Amazon (I checked) and at other online retail sites. You’re not as likely to find one at a brick-and-mortar hardware store, but it’s possible.

A better question is whether they should be available, and Hickman’s answer is that they shouldn’t: “A male-to-male cord has exposed prongs on both ends, meaning one end would always be ‘live’ when plugged in, posing serious shock and fire risks. These cords create a high chance of accidental electrocution and can overload circuits, as there’s no grounding or control over the power flow.”

This isn’t controversial. According to Hassett Hardware’s website, when customers ask if they stock male-to-male extension cords, the answer is a resounding “No” and that no one else should either. Even though they might be available online, “we implore you, please don’t use one,” the website states.

Are Male-to-Male Cords Dangerous?

If you’ve read this far, you already know the answer. Still, just to reiterate, Hickman says: “This ‘suicide cord’ method is illegal and dangerous, risking damage to home circuits, injury to utility workers, and even fires.” There’s no danger if both ends are securely plugged in, but what happens if someone trips on a cord, pulling out the live male end? Or someone forgets to plug that end in? It wouldn’t be the first case of human error causing a fire or injury, but in this case, the danger is preventable by not using the cord in the first place.

If you use such a cord outdoors, you wouldn’t even have to touch the live prongs to get shocked. If it’s raining, water on the ground or wet leaves can conduct electricity and shock someone far from the cord. Not to mention that animals and children could touch the prongs, not knowing what they are, and suffer shock or possible electrocution.

Are There Alternatives to Male-to-Male Electrical Cords?

Yes. Portable power stations can offer a safe and flexible way to get power without complex wiring or dangerous cords, says Hickman. They’re ideal for temporary setups, especially in areas without permanent outlets. If you’re looking for a way to get power to your Christmas lights and don’t have a power station, you’re better off restringing the lights to get the male end of the string closer to the receptacle than using an illegal cord.

A common reason for using a male-to-male cord is to provide emergency power from a generator. You plug one end into the generator and the other end into a wall outlet. This can provide power to the whole house, but it isn’t a safe or legal way to do it because, besides using a dangerous cord, you’re back-feeding power to the grid, which could injure a linesman working to restore power.

The safe way and legal way to power your house from a standby generator is to install a transfer switch. “It will route power to essential circuits without creating hazardous connections,” advises Hickman. “It will prevent back feeding into the grid, which can be deadly to utility workers and others.”

About the Expert

• WG Hickman founded Mississippi-based Tri-County Air Service in 2005 and currently owns and operates the business.

Sources

• Hassett Hardware: Can You Buy Double Male Extension Cords? And Why You Should Never Use Them; 2024.

The post Why Male-to-Male Extension Cords Are Rare and Dangerous appeared first on Family Handyman.

We’ve parsed the United States Consumer Product Safety Commission (USCPSC) brief about the recall to bring you the details. We’ve also gathered instructions for what to do if you own one of the affected devices. Read on to learn how to keep yourself and your loved ones safe during the cold months.

Which Space Heaters Are Recalled?

As of Nov. 7, 2024, over 512,000 GoveeLife and Govee smart electric space heaters have been recalled in the United States. An additional 48,000 in Canada are also included. Recalled unit numbers include H7130 (including the H7130101 variation), H7131, H7132, H7133, H7134, and H7135. These heaters are black and white. They vary in height from nine inches to 26 inches, depending on which model you purchased.

According to the USCPSC, retailers selling these heaters include Amazon, Govee and TikTok Shop. They were available from September 2021 through September 2024 and sold for between $30 and $150.

Why Are These Space Heaters Being Recalled?

The impacted devices pose a fire hazard as they have dangerous overheating issues, which can lead to burns and small fires. So far, there are 113 reports of these space heaters overheating, including seven fires and one minor burn. The USCPSC brief expands on this, saying, “Testing determined the smart electric space heaters do not comply with the voluntary industry safety standard, UL 1278, posing an overheating and fire risk from wireless control features.”

What Do I Do if I Own One of These Space Heaters?

If you have one of the space heaters included in the recall, you must contact the manufacturer. If you submit your information correctly, you’ll receive a refund. The USCPSC brief says to “unplug the electric space heater, cut the power cord, and send an image of the destroyed electric space heater, the manufacturers label and SN Code on the bottom or side of the unit to GoveeLife or Govee through the link https://recall.goveelife.com/heater-recall.”

Source

GoveeLife and Govee Smart Electric Space Heaters Recalled Due to Fire and Burn Hazards; Imported by Govee, United States Consumer Product Safety Commission, 2024

The post 500,000 Space Heaters Recalled Over Fire Risk – Is Yours Affected? appeared first on Family Handyman.

As winter approaches, a heating hack is making its way around the internet, promising to increase the temperature in rooms warmed by a radiator. Whether or not it works is another story let’s take a look.

The Tin Foil Radiator Hack

The hack as seen on TikTok, in the Irish Sun and many other places online is straightforward: wrap an old piece of cardboard in tinfoil and place it between your radiator and the wall. The idea is that the tin foil will bounce heat back into the room that otherwise would have escaped out through the poorly insulated wall.

Does the tinfoil radiator hack work?

The science behind the hack is sound, at least in theory. Tin foil is made to reflect heat it doesn’t conduct or absorb heat. By positioning a large sheet of foil directly behind a radiator, you’re certainly going to reflect at least some heat back into the room.

The question is really whether the tin foil will make a noticeable difference in the room’s temperature. That will depend on the room. This tin foil hack might be able to significantly raise the temperature in a small room, but probably wouldn’t make a substantial difference in a larger, more open room.

Is This Tin Foil Radiator Hack Dangerous?

Anytime a DIYer comes across a home hack online especially one that involves a potential fire hazard they should ask one question immediately: is this a safety risk? Placing tin foil and cardboard behind a radiator is not inherently dangerous. After a couple of winters, though, the tin foil will start to oxidize, which could cause trouble.

The post Fact or Fiction: Will Tin Foil Behind the Radiator Warm Up Your Space? appeared first on Family Handyman.

As a landlord, one of my more frequent calls from tenants involves low faucet water pressure. Thankfully, this is an easy fix that I can manage quickly. Unfortunately, not all causes of low water pressure are so simple. Read on to learn why your water pressure may be low as well as possible DIY fixes with tips from licensed plumber Liam Hogan.

Reasons Your Water Pressure May Be Low

Possible causes for low water pressure range from mundane to serious.

Obstructed Pipes

Over time, plumbing pipes can become clogged by debris, mineral build-up or corrosion. As the pipes narrow, water can’t move as quickly through them, resulting in lower water pressure. “This is especially true if you have hard water or galvanized pipes,” Hogan says. The best fix for this issue is to call a plumber to diagnose and replace any obstructed pipes.

Leaks in the Plumbing System

If there’s a leak in a water supply pipe, you may experience lower water pressure throughout the home. The break in the line allows water, but also pressure, to escape from the plumbing system. “There can be an obvious leak gushing water into your basement or a subtle, small leak under a bathroom sink,” Hogan says. Do some investigating, checking around all plumbing fixtures for damp areas, puddles or the sound of dripping or hissing water.

Faulty Pressure Regulator

If your home is equipped with a pressure regulator, and you’re experiencing low water pressure, a faulty unit may be to blame. Check that the regulator is set to 45 to 60 psi, a typical residential pressure setting. If it’s set lower than this, adjust the pressure accordingly. If this still doesn’t fix the problem, a broken regulator may be at fault. Call a licensed plumber to install a new one.

Undersized pipes

Pipes that are too small for the water supply demands of your home can cause water pressure to be less than desirable. Usually, water is supplied into the house in 3/4 to 1-in. pipes, then distributed through 1/2-in. branch pipes. If the main supply pipe is too small, this will reduce the water volume, which also reduces the pressure. This issue is exacerbated if plumbing demands increase due to an addition or new bathroom and the pipes are not resized.

Partially Closed Shutoff Valve

If your low water pressure is limited to one fixture, the shut-off valve may have become partially closed. Check the valve and make sure it is completely open. Also check the shut-off valve at the main plumbing line into the home. This is usually found in the basement, near the street. “If the main line valve is partially closed it will impact the water pressure all through the home,” Hogan says.

Water Supply Issues

Occasionally, your municipal water supplier is experiencing water supply issues themselves. If you check with your neighbors, and they have low water pressure as well, this may be the cause. Contact your water supplier to report the issue and receive any updates as they work to fix it. It is also possible that your city or town has changed their water regulations, maybe due to drought conditions, and the water supplier is only complying with the new rules. In this case, consider using high-pressure fixtures for higher water pressure.

Clogged or Faulty Fixtures

Sediment and debris in pipes can accumulate within fixtures, which will lower water pressure. Faucet aerators are especially susceptible to this issue, but are easy to fix. Unscrew the faucet end where the water exits and remove the small screen inside — this is the aerator. Gently clean it with soap and water, then replace it and tighten the faucet end.

In the shower, sediment can clog the shower cartridge. “If this is the case, it’s best to have a new one installed,” Hogan says.

FAQ

Is low water pressure dangerous?

It can be, depending on the reason your water pressure is low. If the cause is a leak somewhere in your plumbing system, you’ll want to catch this quickly before it causes major water damage. Even a minor leak can lead to property damage and mold growth.

What does it mean if my water pressure gets low suddenly?

If the water pressure drops suddenly throughout the house, this is most likely an issue with the pressure regulator, a clog in the main supply pipe or a water supply issue.

What does it mean if only my hot water pressure is low?

A partially closed hot water shut off valve is probably the cause. Check to make sure it is fully open. Other causes could be a faulty tempering valve that mixes hot and cold water within the fixture or an issue with your hot water delivery system. “You may need to have the hot water heater flushed to remove sediment build up,” Hogan says.

About the Expert

Liam Hogan owns Hogan Mechanical Incorporated in Agawam, Massachusetts. He holds a journeyman plumbing license and has five years of experience.

The post 7 Reasons Your Water Pressure Is Low appeared first on Family Handyman.

Below, Lozano and I walk you through some common issues that you may run into when working on your own home. It’s not an exhaustive list! The NEC updates every three years, so verify with your local electrical inspector which code cycle your jurisdiction follows. Requirements apply to new construction and repairs, so you don’t have to rush out and fix everything. As always, call a licensed electrician if you need help.

Mislabeled Breakers

The NEC requires that circuit breakers be legibly marked so you know exactly what they do. Well, I don’t know about you, but I’ve never lived in a house where the breakers were labeled right. That’s a problem if you’re doing DIY electrical work or if you need to shut off a circuit quickly when there’s a problem.

Lozano says the easiest way to fix a poorly labeled breaker box is to ask a friend or family member to switch each breaker off one by one. When the lights or power go off in the room, you know what the breaker controls. (If you’re by yourself, you can use a radio, circuit tracer or receptacle tester.)

Label each breaker, or make a panel schedule and post it inside or adjacent to the door.

No Ground Fault Protection

If you’ve sold or bought a house or upgraded your kitchen, bathroom or garage, you’ve probably had an inspector flag a missing ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI), especially if your home is older. GFCIs protect you from electric shock, and they’re required in multiple places around your home where water is present.

Because GFCI requirements have expanded over time, many homes lack them, where the NEC currently requires them. To get your circuits up to code, there’s no need to install a GFCI in every outlet. Install one GFCI in the first outlet after the panel, and daisy chain the rest (these can be regular grounding-type receptacles). Or, put in a GFCI breaker.

• Pro tip: If your bathroom receptacles go out, and you can’t figure out why, look for a GFCI in another bathroom. The NEC allows bathrooms to be wired together, and because one GFCI receptacle can protect an entire circuit, you probably have one upstairs that’s tripped.

No Dedicated Circuit

Your kitchen sure would feel roomier if you ditched that countertop microwave and installed one over the stove, right? If you DIY the installation, resist the urge to tap off an existing circuit. Make sure you run a dedicated circuit, also called an individual branch circuit.

A built-in microwave/range hood combo, or any appliance “fixed in place” that shares a circuit with lights or countertop receptacles, must use less than 50% of the branch circuit rating, which in your kitchen is 20 amps. Even if you purchased a smaller over-the-range microwave, you’re cutting it close by staying under 10 amps.

Plus, if you plan to plug in your new microwave instead of hard-wiring it, the NEC requires a dedicated circuit, no matter the amp draw. Finally, over-the-range microwave manufacturers nearly always require dedicated circuits, and the NEC says you have to follow the listing and labeling instructions provided by the manufacturer.

Overloading Circuits

Let’s say you don’t want the hassle of DIYing a range hood. You’d rather free up space by putting your new microwave in a cabinet under the counter. Can you feed a new cabinet receptacle from the countertop receptacle directly above? Nope.

Kitchens (including adjoining areas like pantries and dining rooms) have two 20-amp small appliance branch circuits that supply your countertops, wall and floor receptacles and fridge (although many people put fridges on their own circuit). Everyone’s kitchen is different, so the NEC wants these small appliance circuits reserved for toasters, air fryers, coffee makers and other small portable countertop appliances.

Adding a new receptacle in a cabinet adds a permanently plugged-in load that could potentially overload your circuit.

Open Junction Boxes or No Box at All

Lozano sees these a lot. Junction boxes must be covered, and you can’t have splices made outside of a junction box. I once found several splices just dangling in a wall cavity, which I remedied by adding a box before the device I was installing.

The next house I moved to had open boxes in the attic. The splices were fine, so I added “blanks,” which are covers that don’t have any openings. If you’re doing a DIY project and come across any open junction boxes, you can do the same to bring them up to NEC safety requirements.

Permanent Extension Cords

When you work on a project in your garage, are you constantly stepping over multiple extension cords? Have they been there longer than you can remember? The NEC doesn’t allow extension cords to be used as a substitute for permanent wiring, so for your next DIY project, why not put in some new surface-mounted receptacles?

If you do add receptacles in your garage, consider the loads you’ll be using. New garages must have one 20-amp circuit, with one receptacle in each vehicle bay not more than 5 1/2 feet off the floor. Additional circuits can be 15 amps or greater.

Wrong Outdoor Receptacle Covers

Newly constructed homes must have two outdoor receptacles for plugging in lawn tools, holiday lights, and other electrical needs. (You may just have one, or even zero if your home is old enough.) These outdoor receptacles could be in “wet locations,” where they’re subject to weather or water intrusion, or “damp locations,” such as under porches and eaves.

The NEC requires that receptacles in damp locations be weatherproof when nothing is plugged in and that the receptacle covers be closed. In wet locations, the receptacle must be weatherproof even when the plug is inserted. Wet location covers are called “bubble covers” or “in-use” covers, and you can use them in damp locations, too.

When I moved into my home, I noticed the deck above did nothing to stop rain from dripping on the lower porch receptacle. So, I added in-use, weatherproof covers, and it’s an easy DIY project for you, too. “Weatherproof receptacle covers will go a long way in prolonging the life of the receptacle installation,” Lozano says.

Inaccessible GFCIs

“Installing GFCIs in a location that is hard to find or access can create headaches for homeowners and electricians alike,” Lozano says. A great example of this is behind a refrigerator. The NEC requires kitchen and garage receptacles to be GFCI-protected, but it’s very hard to move a fridge if the GFCI trips.

That’s why the NEC requires GFCIs to be installed in a readily accessible location. No climbing up ladders, no fumbling for a key, no moving something heavy. A great way to get around difficult placement, like a garage door opener on your ceiling, is to install a breaker or use one GFCI to feed other receptacles. “A tripped GFCI can affect a whole circuit, creating a real issue,” Lozano says.

No Neutral at Switch

Most switches don’t require a neutral to operate, so for decades, the NEC didn’t require electricians or homeowners to bring a neutral to switch boxes. But, today’s smart switches and dimmers have electronics, and most of them do need the neutral. The NEC now requires neutrals at switch boxes, or there must be a way to easily pull one later (like through a pipe).

But most homes aren’t piped with conduit. So if you’re DIYing an addition, it’s best to just bring one now, even if you don’t use it. If you’re adding smart switches to your older home, look for ones that don’t require a neutral (they do exist).

Improperly Replacing Non-Grounding Receptacles

I used to live in a very old house with knob-and-tube wiring. Knob-and-tube has two wires: hot and neutral. (No “ground wire,” more accurately called an equipment grounding conductor (EGC).) A previous homeowner got sick of having nowhere to plug in a three-prong plug and swapped out the two-slot, non-grounding type receptacles for three-slot, grounding-type ones.

That was a code violation. I had three ways to fix it:

1. Pull an ECG from the service panel to every outlet in the house. This is the best but most expensive option.
2. Put the non-grounding receptacles back. This is the cheapest, but I’d still have the three-prong problem.
3. Put in a GFCI, which would provide shock protection, accept a three-prong plug and be code-compliant. This is what I chose.

If you put in GFCIs like I did, the NEC requires that you label the front of the receptacle: “No Equipment Ground.” (Stickers come with the GFCI.) If you use one GFCI to control other grounding-type receptacles on the same circuit, label these “No Equipment Ground” and “GFCI Protected.”

Not Installing Tamper-Resistant Receptacles

Tamper-resistant receptacles are required everywhere in your house to keep kids from sticking things in the slots. You don’t have to run out and replace them if you don’t have them, but if you’re adding a new room or swapping out an old receptacle, make sure you buy tamper-resistant ones. (One exception is if you happen to be replacing a two-slot, non-grounding receptacle with another of the same type.)

Overfilling Electrical Boxes

The NEC has specific box fill requirements for junction boxes to minimize heat buildup. If you open a box during a DIY project and discover a packed box, put in a bigger one. “Wire nuts and connections can come loose when trying to fit everything inside of the box,” Lozano says, and if you’re using a metal box, “[wire] insulation can become damaged and leave wiring exposed.” That’s a fire waiting to happen.

Leaving Christmas Lights Up Too Long

Are you a Clark Griswold when it comes to Christmas lights? DIY holiday displays are becoming more and more common, with lights, sound and inflatables popping up way before Thanksgiving. Some people even extend that holiday spirit into a year-round affair, with Valentine’s, Halloween and Fourth of July decorations in every imaginable color and design.

Be aware that the NEC has a 90-day limit on “temporary installations” of holiday lights. Typical big-box lights aren’t made to withstand the elements forever. If you plan to light up your yard 365 days a year, invest in permanent lights that are listed for this purpose.

About the Expert

Chris Lozano is a master electrician and virtual electrical expert at Frontdoor, a home services app that connects you to on-staff, qualified experts to help you solve your home maintenance issues. It’s like telehealth for your home.

The post The Most Common National Electric Code Violations DIYers Run Into appeared first on Family Handyman.

Before heat pumps came on the scene, however, homes tended to have central air conditioners, which are basically heat pumps that can only transfer heat in one direction from inside the house to outside. Many homes still have these units, and since they aren’t in service during the winter, there’s a reasonable question about whether you should cover the compressor in the winter.

We asked HVAC pros from around the country for their opinions, and as you might expect, those in the south were less enthusiastic about covering the compressor in winter than those in the north. Sustainability expert Mike Naughton summed it up like this: “Whether or not you should cover your AC unit depends on your specific climate and property. If you live further up North, where it’s prone to heavier snowfall, it would be a good idea to protect your unit with a covering.”

If you do decide to cover your AC compressor unit in winter, what’s the best way to do it? Our experts weighed in.

What Is an AC Compressor?

An AC compressor is basically an oversized version of the compressor in your refrigerator. It’s a pump that pressurizes a liquid refrigerant inside a condenser coil system. The pressurized refrigerant turns into a gas as it sprays through a valve into a separate set of evaporator coils in the house, which is a process that essentially sucks heat out of the indoor air. The compressor exhausts the heat outdoors as it re-pressurizes the gas to turn it back into a liquid.

The compressor and condenser coils are usually contained in a protective metal housing located somewhere just outside the building. The housing has a network of fins to allow hot air from the compressor to dissipate, and these fins can expose the compressor to snow, moist air and yard debris.

Do You Need to Cover Your AC Compressor?

As Naughton pointed out, whether you need to cover your AC compressor depends on where you live. Glenn Wiseman is a sales rep at an HVAC and Home Services firm in Ottawa, Ontario which is definitely in a northern climate and he said: “If your HVAC unit has an outdoor component, it is best to cover it during snow storms. If any ice or snow builds up on the system, remove it immediately to help restore airflow and prevent rust from forming.”

On the other hand, Aaron Traub, an HVAC pro who services the New Orleans area, said: “You don’t always need to cover your outdoor AC unit during winter. Most modern AC units are built to handle the elements.”

HVAC service pro WG Hickman, who lives in Mississippi, added that “covering the outdoor AC unit can even do more harm than good, as covers prevent proper airflow and trap moisture, leading to rust and mold growth.”

If you do cover your AC unit, the best time to do it is in the fall. However, Mark Woodruff, a product manager at Trane Residential, gave this warning: “There are challenges for some of the warmer areas of the country, which may still periodically need cooling during the fall. Homeowners may turn on the AC and forget the cover is on, and that can hurt the air conditioning system.” In other words, prevent damage by remembering to remove the cover before turning on your AC unit.

What’s the Best Way to Cover Your AC Unit?

Tarp? Fabric cover? Plywood? There’s more to consider when making your choice of the way to cover your AC unit than you might have guessed.

For starters, none of the experts consulted for this story recommended covering an AC compressor unit with a tarp. “That can do more harm than good,” said Houston-based HVAC expert David Lewis. “[It could trap] moisture inside, which can lead to rust and mold.” You need a breathable cover, and the best option, according to Woodruff, is an original equipment manufacturer (OEM) cover fitted to the unit and made of quality materials. “Look for unit covers with ventilation flaps or mesh panels to allow for proper air circulation and avoid the risk of mold,” advises Naughton.

“Placing a piece of plywood on top of the unit can help protect it from falling ice or heavy snow,” said Traub. “But I’d be sure to clear it off as needed.” Many experts were in favor of covering the AC unit with plywood, and in many parts of the country, that’s all you need. Place a piece of plywood on top of the housing that is large enough to cover it and secure it with bricks.

Woodruff pointed out, however, that a plywood cover is inadequate in cold climates where salt is used on the roads. “Salt is corrosive and will cause rust, and so keeping salt off of the unit is generally a good thing.” That’s one more point in favor of a fabric cover, but he also notes another point against it: “A cover provides a wonderful warm spot for mice and other critters to live, and they often like to chew on wires and create other issues.”

Winter Maintenance for AC Units

“Whether or not you choose to cover your A/C unit this winter,” said Naughton, “make sure to clear the surrounding area of dirt, debris, twigs, leaves, and animal nests. While most A/C units are built to withstand weather conditions, a build-up of debris can severely impact its efficiency and performance.”

Hickman added: “And here’s an additional tip: Before winter hits, apply a coil-safe anti-corrosion spray to the AC coils to protect them against rust and moisture. Just make sure to use one specifically designed for HVAC systems. If your area gets a lot of snow, elevate the unit slightly by placing it on bricks or pavers, which helps prevent moisture buildup around the base when snow is melting.”

About the Experts

• Mike Naughton is the founder and CEO of Cleveland-based energy brokerage firm Integrity Energy. He has over 14 years of experience in the energy industry.
• Glenn Wiseman RASDT, RHDT is an experienced HVAC technician and the sales manager at Ottawa-based Top Hat Home Comfort Services.
• Aaron Traub grew up around the HVAC industry. He currently owns Benny’s A/C & Heating in Metairie, LA.
• WG Hickman founded Mississippi-based Tri-County Air Services in 2005.
• Mark Woodruff is Senior Product Manager at Trane Residential.
• David Lewis is a seasoned professional in the field of HVAC, plumbing and home services. He is the owner of Mission AC in Houston, TX.

The post Should You Cover Your Air Conditioner Condenser In the Winter? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Is it truly worth the hype? I tested the Ninesky Dehumidifier in my house for a month in the swampy North Carolina summer to see how it compares to the competition. I’ve tested and used more than a dozen humidity-controlling devices, so I’ll be able to tell you how it compares and whether you should spend your money on it.

What is the Ninesky Dehumidifier?

The Ninesky Dehumidifier is made by Ninesky Goods, a company that claims to have more than 50 years of experience dehumidifier industry. More on that in a second.

There are three models: a 30-ounce, an 85-ounce and an 88-ounce dehumidifier. We’ll be looking at the 85-ounce version, which comes with “ultra-quiet” technology, LED mood lighting, an auto shut-off feature and two fan speed modes.

I’ll be honest: This is not a legitimate company. For one, there’s no proof of them being in business for 50 years anywhere onlineno news articles, no Wikipedia page and no links other than to commerce sites like Amazon. Their website has no “About Us” or “History” page, and their customer testimonials use pictures that are clearly created by artificial intelligence (AI) and can be easily found on other sites that use the same template as NineSky’s.

Their website also mentions their “durable linens,” but they don’t sell anything with linens under the NineSky brand name.

Furthermore, the company is inconsistent in its marketing. On the website and Amazon headline, the dehumidifier is advertised as having an 85-ounce water tank, yet the box and Amazon product specs say it has a 95-ounce tank. This type of discrepancy can be found with their other models, too. It’s possible they updated the models and forgot to change some of the specs, but as you’ll see in a bit, there’s no clear way of knowing which number is correct.

That said, Amazon is filled with these types of unknown brands, and products from such brands often perform well. So, we thought it was still worth reviewing–at the very least, to make sure our readers know that they’re buying from a questionable brand should they choose to go with the NineSky dehumidifier.

Psst: Our Frigidaire Dehumidifier review is based on a product from a company with a proven track record.

Ninesky Dehumidifier Features

85-ounce water tank

Alright, let’s talk about the Ninesky Dehumidifier’s water tank capacity. The company claims it can remove excess moisture from spaces up to 800 square feet and has an 85-ounce water tank, making it a good choice for small aartments or RVs.

As I stated above, the box and other parts of Amazon say the water tank is 95 ounces. So, which is it?

I’m not sure. There are no markings on the water tank. I conducted an unofficial test by emptying the tank into a bowl set on a scale to see what it would weigh. Note: One fluid ounce is roughly one ounce in weight, but that number can change based on many factors, so this is a very, very unscientific test. I also don’t have a measuring cup or bowl that goes up to 85 or 95 ounces, so this is the best I could do.

Either way, I got nowhere near 85 or 95 ounces on the scale. The closest I got was around 65-75 ounces, but again, that shouldn’t be taken as a hard-and-true fact.

Don’t get me wrong. This thing works, and there’s a clear difference in the air when I have it on compared to when it’s off. I just question the accuracy of this company’s claims.

Need to rid your room of dust and other airborne particles? We recommend checking out the NuWave OxyPure Air Purifier or Blueair Air Purifier.

Quiet Operation

The Ninesky Dehumidifier advertises itself as “ultra-quiet,” yet I’m typing this review with it in the same room as the machine, and I can definitely hear it. It’s not loud, but it kind of sounds like a laptop or gaming console fan that’s been running for a while. I’ve definitely used quieter dehumidifiers.

There is a night mode that drops the fan speed to a lower setting that’s supposed to be quieter, though I don’t notice a difference.

Auto Shut-off

The Ninesky Dehumidifier’s auto shut-off function works as advertised. The company says it removes up to 34 ounces of water per day, and I found it took about a day and a half to two days (depending on the humidity) for it to get full. There are some dehumidifiers out there that fail to shut off when full, which results in spills, but that’s not an issue here. I would’ve liked to see a drainage hose option for people who want to run it continuously, but on the bright side, it’s easy to remove the tank and empty it when needed.

If you need a continuously running dehumidifier but don’t have the budget for one, check out our guide to creating a DIY self-draining dehumidifier.

LED Mood Lighting

Here’s another honest take: I don’t like LED mood lighting on any dehumidifier, so I’m not going to knock the Ninesky Dehumidifier too much for having it. I personally don’t see the point of having it, as they’re never bright enough to really make a difference.

If that is your cup of tea, you’ll have seven colors to choose from that can rotate or be set to one color. The dehumidifier’s black shell helps the colors pop more than white dehumidifiers.

How We Tested It

As Family Handyman‘s resident dehumidifier tester and expert, I’ve used more than a dozen small, rechargeable and crawl space dehumidifiers to combat the humid North Carolina weather.

I placed the Ninesky Dehumidifier in my office since that room gets humid very quickly compared to other parts of the house. I took note of how it sounded, how quickly it drew water from the air, the ease of use and whether any issues came up during my testing.

Pros

• Affordable
• Compact
• Lightweight
• Two-speed operation
• LED mood lighting
• Easy-to-remove water tank

Cons

• Not as quiet as advertised
• Tank capacity is unclear

FAQ

Why is the power light blinking on my Ninesky dehumidifier?

The power light on your Ninesky dehumidifier could be due to a power or fan issue. If your power is fine, the fan might require maintenance or be close to failure.

Should I keep my Ninesky dehumidifier on all night?

Yes, if you live in a particularly humid area, you can keep your Ninesky dehumidifier all night. I didn’t think it was the quietest dehumidifier, though it should be fine if placed on the opposite side of a bedroom.

What Other Reviewers and Experts Had to Say

As of this writing, the Ninesky Dehumidifier with an 85-ounce water tank has an average rating of 4.3 on Amazon, with almost 1,100 of the 1,468 reviews being five-star ratings.

“This has been on all day in my room and I am very happy with what I see,” writes five-star Amazon reviewer Krista. “I love that it’s as easy as just plugging in and seeing it do its work. I’m very happy with this for the price that I paid.”

Other reviewers were less than impressed with its functionality. “It will not even dent the humidity of a room,” writes one-star Amazon reviewer Rando. “I bought it hoping it would at least moderate the humidity in a 200 sq. ft. bedroom, and it has practically no effect. Don’t waste your time and money, buy something bigger and more powerful that will actually do the job.”

Ninesky Dehumidifier vs GE Dehumidifier

The DE Dehumidifier costs about four times as much as the Ninesky Dehumidifier, so is it worththe money? The answer, as always, is it depends. If you’re in a larger living space or need abasement dehumidifier, opt for the GE since it’s rated for up to 4,500 square feet and has a 50-pint container.

The GE Dehumidifier also has a continuous drain option. While it’s not as lightweight as the Ninesky, it has wheels so you can roll it from room to room. The GE also has an adjustable fan that sets itself based on the room’s humidity, whereas the Ninesky runs at the same speed when in day or night mode.

The GE Dehumidifier is Energy Star-certified, whereas Ninesky just says it’s energy-efficient (but doesn’t have specific evidence to back it up).

The Midea Dehumidifier offers many of the same features as the GE Dehumidifier at a slightly lower price.

Final Verdict

Is the Ninesky Dehumidifier the best option out there? No. It works just like any other dehumidifier of its size, with the exception of it being a bit louder than similar models. It’s made my office more comfortable and comes at.a good price. If you don’t need the best-of-the-best, this might be a decent option as long as you’re OK with a little noise.

Where to Buy the Ninesky Dehumidifier

The Ninesky Dehumidifier is only available on Amazon. The list price is around $90, though it was less than $60 at the time of this writing.

The post Ninesky Dehumidifier Review: Here’s What We REALLY Think appeared first on Family Handyman.

Landlines are a thing of the past, rendering the phone jacks in most homes useless. You can use the space inside the telephone wall jack as a mini secret safe. With the wires removed, youll have space to hide some cash, jewelry or small collectibles. Then find or make something decorative to cover the opening, and no one will ever suspect theres loot hiding behind it!

This project will take some time to complete because you’ll need to wait a few hours for the super glue to dry completely. The first time I tried this, I didn’t wait long enough for the glue to dry, and the magnets were pulled off the wall. So, don’t make my mistakebe patient and let everything dry properly.

Is it safe to cut old telephone wires?

Modern communication wiring runs on low-voltage systems (less than 50v). However, phone lines used in the past were copper, which could carry a significant amount of current if improperly wired or insulated. That said, whenever you’re doing a project like this one that involves removing wiring, use a voltage tester to ensure you don’t encounter any unexpected voltage.

Remove the face plate

Use a flathead screwdriver to remove both screws in the phone jack face plate.

The post Turn Your Old Telephone Wall Jack Into a Secret Hiding Spot appeared first on Family Handyman.

It is a common challenge to deal with multiple devices that need daily chargingfrom smartphones and smartwatches to headphones, laptops, and tablets. When exploring how to organize cables, many people find themselves frustrated by tangled cords that create unsightly clutter. To address this issue, I crafted an elegant solution: a mahogany wood cable management box that not only conceals the mess but adds a touch of style to the space while keeping all charging cords neatly arranged.

When it comes to wood, there are plenty of options to choose from. If you’re trying to keep costs down, you could go with pine from your local hardware store and then add a darker stain if you want. I wanted to go for a wood with more character since I’ll see this box daily.

I designed this box to keep cords tidy on my desk, but you could also create a larger version to organize cords for your TV or home theater surround sound system. If you choose this option, I recommend adding a few more front openings for cords to pass through the box rather than just two. Make sure to measure your surge protector to ensure it fits into the wooden box, as surge protectors come in various sizes. I also suggest getting some cable ties to group the cables inside the box, reducing the amount of space they take up. These are relatively inexpensive and can be purchased online or in-store.

Do yourself a favor and organize the cluster of cords on your desk. The good news is that you don’t need to be a professional for this quick DIY project.

Project Overview

Cutting List

Cut the pieces

Using a tape measure and speed square, measure and cut the sides (A), ends (B), bottom (C), and lid (D) of the cable management box with a table saw or miter saw.

The post How To Organize Cables with a DIY Cable Management Box appeared first on Family Handyman.

Luckily, Lumary has solved the age-old problem of spending multiple hours putting up and taking down holiday lights. The brand recently released permanent outdoor lights, which only have to be installed once and can be left up year-round (yes, really!).

What are the permanent outdoor lights from Lumary?

The permanent outdoor lights from Lumary come in a long string of outdoor LED lights that can be left up indefinitely. Choose from three different lengths: 53 feet, 105 feet or 158 feet. Each set ranges in price from $300 to $650 (depending on size).

Once you’ve installed your lights, control their color, brightness, and mode from the Lumary app, using Alexa or Google Assistant or from the included control box. Easily switch the colors from orange and purple for Halloween to red and green for Christmas without breaking out the ladder.

And if a singular light ends up broken or no longer works, don’t worry about throwing the entire strand away. Lumary makes each light with a detachable base so you can easily change one out.

Plus, these lights can withstand a wide range of temperatures (between -4 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit, according to the brand), so you don’t have to worry about extreme weather damaging them.

Where to Buy the permanent outdoor lights

VIA MERCHANT

Shop on Lumary

Lumary Permanent Outdoor Lights Max

Shop on Lumary

Purchase the Lumary permanent outdoor lights on the Lumary website or Amazon. Prices start at $300, and you can choose from three sizes. Now, who’s ready for some holiday decorating?

The post Go from Halloween to Christmas Instantly with These All-New Permanent Outdoor Lights appeared first on Family Handyman.

VIA MERCHANT

$299.99 at Amazon

Shop at IQ Air

Shop at Walmart

The IQ Air AirVisual Pro Indoor Monitor is our top pick for indoor air quality monitors because it gives you tips on how to improve your air quality. The built-in air quality coach lets you know if you should run an air purifiersuch as the NuWave OxyPure Air Purifier or open/close your windows depending on your environment so you can be proactive about the changes you see on the monitor and the app.

To be honest, none of the monitors I tested ever picked up concerning levels of particulate matter, carbon monoxide or volatile organic compounds. The only time the IQ Air AirVisual Pro Indoor Monitor ever recommended any action was when I was cooking, and even then, it was just to open the window for a few minutes.

Another great feature is the ability to monitor outdoor air quality on the same monitor and app, similar to the air quality forecast on a weather app. I also like that it easily provides you with historical data to track changes in air quality over time, though, to be honest, the smartphone app was janky and unresponsive at times. Luckily, you can read your data simply by logging onto the company’s website and logging into your account.

Other than that, it checks all the boxes you’d want in an air monitor: lightweight, compact, accurate, easy to understand and app-compatible.

The post 5 Best Air Quality Monitors to Keep a Healthy Home, Tested and Reviewed appeared first on Family Handyman.

Why Isn’t My Light Working?

Depending on your comfort level, troubleshooting a light can involve many things, from simple fixes to “calling an electrician. ” Here’s what to look for, followed by some steps to remedy the situation.

• Old, loose or bad bulb
• Tripped breaker
• Incompatible dimmer and bulb
• Bad switch (or loose wiring at switch)
• Loose wiring at light, or if lights are wired in series, another light on the same circuit
• Overheating around light (if equipped with thermal protector)
• Wiring problems elsewhere in the circuit

How To Troubleshoot and Fix a Light

Lights that don’t work are frustrating. Often, though, they’re a simple fix. You won’t know exactly why your light isn’t working unless you dig in and check. For these troubleshooting steps, you’ll need a non-contact voltage tester and a multimeter.

Check the bulb

Let’s start with an easy one. If you have a problem with a single light or fixture, the first thing to do is check the bulb. If it feels loose, tighten it. If it’s burned out, replace it. Check that the bulb’s wattage doesn’t exceed the max allowable on the fixture, which can cause overheating. (If the bulb is hot to the touch, let it cool down first.)

If it’s a fluorescent fixture, it might be time to replace the tube or CFL (compact fluorescent lamp) with an energy-efficient light-emitting diode (LED). Fluorescents tend to flicker when they reach the end of their lifespan, but they also flicker as they warm up in cold environments, so make sure the problem persists before rushing out to replace it. (Although any time is a good time to switch to LEDs.)

Verify the breaker didn’t trip

If it’s not the bulb, check the breaker. This is more likely to be the culprit if you notice all your lights not working rather than a single fixture, but it’s still one thing you can check off your list. If your breakers aren’t labeled very well, look for a breaker that is in a different (middle) position than the others. Flip it off, then on, and check your lights.

Check dimmer compatibility

Did you recently install a dimmer switch or swap out an old can light trim with a new one? Not all LEDs are compatible with dimmers, and not all fixtures are dimmable. If you still have the packaging, check to see if it specifically says “dimmable.” Most of the time, dimmer incompatibility will cause your light to drop out or flicker, but it’s possible it could stop working completely. If it’s not compatible, swap out the bulb or trim.

Look at the switch

If you feel confident, look inside the switch box to see if the switch terminations are tight and that all splices are secure. Always turn off the breaker and verify the circuit is off with a non-contact voltage tester. Remember that just turning a switch off does not cut power to the box or switch.

Switches have contacts inside that can wear out after hundreds or thousands of throws. If the switch movement feels loose or you hear a loud snap or buzz when operating it, the switch might be bad. Basic toggle switches are cheap, so it’s easy to just replace it as a troubleshooting step.

Test the switch for continuity

If you have a multimeter, test the switch before swapping it out. Continuity means that the current (when it’s on) has a complete, unbroken path through the switch. It’s important to turn off the breaker for this step, and verify the power is off. Never test continuity on a live circuit.

Set the meter to continuity or the lowest resistance (ohms) setting. Hold one lead to each of the brass screw terminals on the switch. If the switch is good, you should hear a beep when you toggle the switch to on and the resistance should be very close to zero. Your multimeter instructions can help you with settings and procedures, too.

Check the lights

Bad splices at the light can keep your light from turning on. Turn off the switch and the breaker, and be ready to verify with your non-contact voltage tester. You may need a helper, especially if the light’s on the ceiling. Carefully open up the fixture or remove it from the box, and verify all circuits are dead. Two hots can share a neutral, so it’s important to turn off all circuits.

Check the splices and connections to the light. Everything should be tight and secure. If multiple lights are out, the problem is likely in the first light after the switch. Check that one first (if you know which one it is.)

Replace can light

Canister lights, aka can lights, recess into your ceiling, so they have thermal protectors to shut them off if they get too hot. This could happen if insulation is packed too tightly around the light, or falls over it when someone traipses around in the attic. Or, maybe the wattage of the lamp is too high for the fixture.

If your light goes off for a while, then comes back on, the thermal protector might be sensing a problem with heat buildup. If the problem is obvious, like too much insulation covering the light, fix that situation first. Then weigh your options. You may have to call an electrician if the situation keeps happening, or replace the can if you’re comfortable. Never bypass a thermal protector or remove it entirely.

Investigate wiring problems

Wiring problems at your electrical panel, or somewhere between your panel and your switch or the switch and the light, could cause lights to not work. This is where it’s best to call an electrician unless you have a lot of knowledge about how your wiring works and where things are fed from. Check the basics first, then call a pro if you can’t figure it out.

The post Troubleshooting a Failing Light: An Electrician’s Guide appeared first on Family Handyman.

No bulb lasts forever. That means consumers like you and me have to figure out what to do with a bulb when it no longer works.

“Think of your light bulbs as batteries,” counsels home energy efficiency expert Andrei Marveaux. “Some can be recycled, while others need to go to a facility for appropriate disposal.” The issue isn’t just about recycling materials to make other products. Some bulbs contain toxic chemicals that need to stay out of landfills.

“It’s a small step,” says professional home buyer Erwin Miciano, who has ample opportunity to replace bulbs in the course of his work. “But proper disposal helps keep homes (and the environment) safe!”

If you’ve got a stash of old, dead light bulbs and you don’t know what to do with them, this post is for you.

Types of Light Bulbs

Considering how long light bulbs have been around, the transition from traditional light bulbs to contemporary high-efficiency ones has been fast. So fast, in fact, that many homes still get their light from three different types of bulbs.

Incandescents

These are the bulbs popularized by Thomas Edison. They produce light by the electrical resistance generated by passing electricity through a filament, which makes the filament glow. To protect the filament and make it last as long as possible, it has to be enclosed in a pressurized glass bulb.

Even though incandescents are no longer available on store shelves, many people still have a cache of unused bulbs, and plenty of folks prefer the warm light they produce.

Halogens

Like incandescents, halogen bulbs contain wire filaments sealed in glass. But the glass is much thicker and there’s a halogen gas sealed in the bulb. It allows them to burn hotter and brighter than regular incandescents.

Fluorescent tubes and CFLs

Take a fluorescent tube, form it into a bulb-like shape and give it a screw base, and you’ve got a CFL. Both types of bulbs produce light by the excitation of a gas, and the problem they create for disposal is that the gas contains mercury, which is an environmental hazard.

LEDs

LEDs aren’t really bulbs. They contain light-emitting diodes (which is where the acronym LED comes from), and the diodes emit light whether or not they are protected by an enclosure. Manufacturers provide traditional bulb-shaped enclosures to provide continuity for consumers, but they could be any shape. They aren’t pressurized, and they aren’t glass; they’re plastic.

LEDs may contain harmful chemicals, especially those that have a coating on the enclosure to change the color of the light, but they usually don’t. The main reason to recycle them is that they contain microchips that can be used to make new bulbs.

Recycle or Throw Away?

This is a simple decision, according to Marveaux: “LEDs, CFLs, and fluorescents? Absolutely recycle them. Incandescents? Wrap ’em up and toss ’em in the trash.”

The reason that wrapping incandescent bulbs is important is that the gas inside the glass enclosure is pressurized, which means the bulb can explode. If you simply toss an unwrapped incandescent in the trash, a waste management worker could be injured. That’s why, as an extra precaution, I usually put used incandescent bulbs in a paper shopping bag and break them with a hammer before tossing the bag, bulbs and all.

You might also be able to throw halogen bulbs in the trash check with your local trash management agency. The glass contains quartz to make it stronger, and it can’t be processed with regular glass because it has a different melting point. You may have to send them to a recycling facility.

How to Recycle Used Bulbs

Miciano advises that many home improvement stores, like The Home Depot or Lowe’s, have recycling programs where you can drop off CFLs. You can usually also recycle LEDs at these same locations, but check first.

“Just don’t throw them in your regular recycling bin, because they need to be processed separately,” he says. “Always check local regulations. Some cities or waste disposal centers have specific programs for recycling or disposing of bulbs properly. It’s also a good idea to visit websites like Earth911, where you can search for local recycling options by item.”

The same also goes for fluorescent tubes, but because of their size and fragility, waste collectors tend to have special rules for recycling and disposing of them. Check with your local waste management service to find out what these rules are and where to find a facility, if necessary.

What About Holiday Lights?

Holiday lights may feature incandescent or LED bulbs, and the type of bulb will determine how to recycle them.

• Tip: Incandescent bulbs are larger than LEDs and have a screw base.

Your local waste collection service might offer a recycling program for unwanted or broken holiday lights. Specialty electronics recycling services sometimes accept holiday lights, as do home centers like The Home Depot or Lowe’s. Companies that sell lights online, like Christmas Light Source or Holiday LEDs, also offer recycling services.

About the Experts

• Erwin Miciano buys homes in the Los Angeles area and prepares them for re-sale. He is the owner of Semi Homes.
• Andrei Marveaux is the Managing Director of SolarTech Solutions/The Home Upgrade. He holds a degree in engineering and is passionate about sustainable energy and environmental conservation.

The post Should You Recycle Light Bulbs or Just Throw Them Away? appeared first on Family Handyman.

The best mattress toppers actually extend the life of your mattress. Some toppers change the feel entirely while others drastically improve your sleep quality by providing pressure relief, alleviating back pain or regulating your body temperature. And much like a mattress protector, they prevent spills, sweat and other stains from making it into the mattress itself. We tested nine mattress toppers, specifically looking for those that are best for side sleepers. The Dormeo Mattress Topper was our top Amazon pick. Here’s everything you need to know before adding it to your cart.

What is the Dormeo Mattress Topper?

The Dormeo Mattress Topper is a memory foam topper with medium firmness. It features innovative Octaspring technology to facilitate a cooler and more supportive sleep surface. What really sets the Dormeo mattress topper apart from other models is its three-zone support. Firmer Octasprings cradle your hips and back in the middle of the topper while softer Octasprings make up the zones around your shoulders and legs.

The Dormeo mattress topper has a non-slip bottom and adjustable corner straps to keep it in place.

LEAH GROTH FOR FAMILY HANDYMAN

$282 at Amazon

we tried it

Dormeo Premium Mattress Topper

The Dormeo mattress topper's 3 zone support offers targeted pressure point relief.

$282 at Amazon

How We Tested It

Delivery and Setup

As someone who struggles with back pain, our tester, Leah Groth, was happy to try the Dormeo Mattress Topper on her Purple mattress. The topper arrived in a single box that Groth was able to bring inside and up a flight of stairs on her own. The topper itself, which Groth estimates to be around 30 pounds, was folded and wrapped in plastic. The heavy weight of this topper made it difficult to maneuver once it was unwrapped. “Carrying and setup was a one-person job. It was very easy to get up the stairs without struggling,” she says. “Once opened, however, it is harder to maneuver than the others [that I’ve tried]. It is heavier and less flexible.”

Once Groth managed to position the topper on her bed, she appreciated the fact that it didn’t need time to inflate or off-gas. The only thing she didn’t like about the Dormeo mattress topper was its size. According to Groth, there was quite a bit of overhang when placed on the mattress. Fortunately, the overhang didn’t affect the overall comfort or support of the topper and it stayed on well thanks to the adjustable corner straps.

Sleep Testing

After sleeping on the Dormeo mattress topper for five nights, Groth noticed an improvement in her back. “Because the topper is so firm, it prevents my back from sinking into the bed,” she explains. “However, it provides support at pressure points. I definitely noticed that my back was less achy and my neck didn’t feel so strained after sleeping on it for a few nights.” She also found the topper to be cooling and breathable with a high-quality feel.

Groth loved how supported she felt while sleeping on the Dormeo mattress topper. However, she notes that there is some room for improvement. Though the topper is advertised as having a medium-firm feel, Groth found it to be a bit too firm for her liking.

“It was a little too firm for me and I didn’t love the Octaspring technology, which is supposed to provide targeted pressure point relief,” explains Groth. “I prefer a softer mattress, especially for side sleeping, as I tend to shift positions in the night. While it did offer pressure point relief for side sleeping, I didn’t feel super comfortable.”

Additionally, Groth would have preferred a smoother cover. She could feel the hexagon impressions through her sheets.

Overall, Groth recommends the Dormeo mattress topper to anyone who likes the feel of a firm sleep surface. “It is definitely well-made with high quality materials,” she says. “And it’s thick.” We recommend pairing it with a medium-firm mattress like the Cocoon Chill or luxurious Saatva Classic Mattress.

Pros

• Three-zone support distributes weight evenly
• Targeted pressure point relief
• Machine-washable cover
• Adjustable corner straps
• Available in seven sizes
• Arrives quickly via Prime shipping

Cons

• Pricey
• Hexagon grid can be felt through linens

Why You Should Trust Us

AtFamily Handyman, our team of editors and testers are always excited to try new products. We especially love testing products that enhance the quality of our sleep. We sent this mattress topper to long-term tester Leah Groth.

Groth put this topper on her own mattress and slept on it for five nights. During that time, she focused on its overall comfort and performance, paying special attention to how well it alleviated her back and neck aches. She also considered how easy it was to unpack and place on the bed, whether or not it had any odors and its overall value. “It is good quality, thick, and seems like it would last a long time,” raves Groth. “It may even get more comfortable over time. And the waterproof cover keeps it super protected.”

FAQ

Is the Dormeo mattress topper good for side sleepers?

The Dormeo mattress topper is designed for all sleeping positions. However, its smart three-zone support provides the appropriate amount of support for each part of your body. Firmer Octasprings in the middle of the topper offer much needed support for your hips, making the Dormeo mattress topper ideal for side sleepers.

How thick are Dormeo mattress toppers?

The Dormeo Mattress Topper we tested is 3 inches thick.

What Other Reviewers Had to Say

The Dormeo mattress topper has over 1,940 five-star reviews on Amazon with customers raving about its overall comfort and ability to alleviate back pain. Here’s what they had to say.

One Amazon customer insists that the Dormeo mattress topper completely changed the feel of their 9-year-old Tempur-Pedic mattress. “It has definitely improved the quality of my sleep and has improved the comfort of my 9-year-old Tempur-Pedic hybrid mattress,” they write. “I’ve slept on this topper for 2 weeks now and I absolutely love it! I’m a side sleeper and this cushions my hips. I sleep soundly without waking up with hip pain. Very happy and definitely recommend it.”

Happy in the Sunshine, another five-star reviewer, couldn’t be happier that they purchased this mattress topper in spite of it being a lesser-known brand.

“I bought this topper because of my back pain and because I sleep hot. Bam! This made all the difference. Pain is better and the bed doesn’t overheat like it does with regular memory foam,” raves Happy. “This brand never gets mentioned when you search the internet for best toppers. But guess what? It was rated number one by Consumer’s Union so I bought it. I’m glad I did.”

And five-star reviewer Ms. Gloria D is sleeping better than ever thanks to this topper.

“This mattress topper definitely supports the body, and I do sleep well now,” she writes. “It has helped with my sensitive pressure points and Im pleased with the thickness and appearance. Definitely cooler than the foam gel one that I tossed out.”

Dormeo Mattress Topper vs. Dreamsmith Memory Foam Mattress Topper

A search for memory foam mattress toppers on Amazon will yield thousands of results so finding the best one can feel like an impossible feat. We tested two highly rated memory foam mattress toppers from Amazon: the Dormeo mattress topper and the Dreamsmith mattress topper. Both mattress toppers are made of supportive memory foam and have adjustable straps to keep them securely in place. Moreover, they both have removable covers that can be tossed in the washing machine.

Starting at $282, the Dormeo mattress topper is slightly more than double the price of the Dreamsmith. The Dormeo offers three-zone support and has Octaspring technology which allows air to circulate, making this topper breathable and cooling.

The Dreamsmith comes in five sizes, three thickness levels and starts at $120. It is supportive and comfortable, but keep in mind that this mattress topper will need time to expand after being positioned on your bed.

Final Verdict

If youre looking for a way to spruce up your old mattress, then the Dormeo mattress topper is an excellent choice. This temperature regulating mattress topper offers targeted pressure point relief and all-over support so you’ll wake up well-rested.

Where to Buy the Dormeo Mattress Topper

The Dormeo Mattress Topper is available on Amazon. It’s available in seven sizes and starts at $282. Best of all, it’s eligible for Prime two-day shipping which means you’ll be on your way to better sleep in no time.

LEAH GROTH FOR FAMILY HANDYMAN

$282 at Amazon

we tried it

Dormeo Premium Mattress Topper

Breathable memory foam, a machine washable cover and adjustable corner straps make this Dormeo mattress topper one of our top picks.

$282 at Amazon

The post The Dormeo Mattress Topper is the Best Amazon Purchase You’ll Make This Year appeared first on Family Handyman.

I’ve been using it to combat humid North Carolina summers for two years now, and while it’s not my primary dehumidifier, it’s been useful in maintaining good air quality in my office and bathrooms. I can use it in multiple rooms because it’s lightweight and under $50, so it’s a cost-friendly investment for RVs, dorm rooms, or any place 215 square feet or under.

My Pro Breeze Dehumidifier review will discuss my experience with this machine, its pros and cons and how it compares to similar dehumidifiers I’ve used.

What is the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier?

ANTHONY O REILLY/FAMILY HANDYMAN

$39.98 at Walmart

$39.98 at Amazon

$44.99 at The Home Depot

Pro Breeze Portable Dehumidifier

$39.98 at Walmart

$39.98 at Amazon

$44.99 at The Home Depot

The Pro Breeze Dehumidifier is a compact and budget-friendly dehumidifier that can remove excess moisture in spaces up to 215 square feet. Excess moisture feels uncomfortable, and the water vapor can damage clothes, collectibles and even parts of your home.

If your closet has an outlet, it can also be used in closets to prevent clothes from getting damaged or smelly. It can hold two cups of water before automatically shutting off, and the company claims it costs around a cent per day to run.

Dehumidifiers work by drawing the air in a room or other space, such as a crawlspace, and passing it over a frigid coil that causes the water vapor to turn into a liquid that is collected in a bin. Many people pair a dehumidifier with an air purifier, such as the Blueair Air Purifier or NuWave OxyPure, to get rid of any harmful airborne particles.

While some dehumidifiers have a drainage hose option that allows them to run continuously, the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier must be emptied manually before it can continue working.

Pro Breeze Dehumidifier Features

Quiet

When I say that the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier is quiet, I mean it sounds like a white noise machine. So unlike a Midea dehumidifier, it won’t keep you up at night or be heard during your company Zoom call.

I placed it on my nightstand to see if it would be bothersome in a dorm or other small bedroom. Again, it wasn’t whisper-quiet, but I was able to easily fall asleep, especially once I put in my earplugs.

Portable and Lightweight

The Pro Breeze Dehumidifier weighs less than three pounds, so it should be no problem for most able-bodied people to carry it from room to room. There’s not really a handle on it, so you have to grab the entire unit, but with how small it is, that’s not an issue. The plug can also be disconnected from the main unit to avoid having to drag the cord on the floor.

16-ounce Water Tank

The Pro Breeze Dehumidifier can hold up to 16 ounces of water, so it’s best for small bedrooms, studio apartments, college dorms or closets that are susceptible to excess moisture. I’ve used this in bathrooms for the most part. During the summer, it has to be emptied about once a day. There’s no continuous drain option, which would have been nice for those days you’re away and want to keep it running to keep the room comfortable.

The tank easily comes out and can be dumped into a sink, tub, or to water certain plants.

If you’re looking for a basement dehumidifier, we recommend the Frigidaire dehumidifier.

Energy Efficient

The Pro Breeze Dehumidifier is not an Energy Star-certified appliance, but it’s still quite energy-efficient. The company’s official website says this specific model’s 0.023 kilowatt-hours (a unit of measurement to gauge energy usage) is about the same as most ceiling fans use. In terms of your utility bill, appliances with similar energy usage cost less than a penny per hour to run.

In other words, you could hypothetically leave this on for an entire day, and your energy bill would go up by less than a quarter for the month. That’s a good price to pay for relief from the humidity.

How We Tested It

As Family Handyman’s resident dehumidifier expert, I’ve tested more than a dozen full-sized, small, basement, crawl space and rechargeable dehumidifiers in my North Carolina home. For those who don’t know, the Tar Heel State experiences perpetual humidity from May to September. It sometimes feels so swampy that I wouldn’t be surprised if Shrek has a summer house in the state.

I’ve used the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier for about two years in three different homes, mainly in my bathrooms, to ensure the excess humidity keeps the room comfortable and the moisture doesn’t cause bad odors to linger (you know exactly what type of odors I’m referring to).

I also used it in my bedroom for a few nights to monitor its noise level and see if it would be a good fit for college students or apartment dwellers.

Pros

• Lightweight
• Portable
• Budget-friendly
• Quiet
• Auto shut-off function
• Energy-efficient

Cons

• Only covers up to 215 square feet

FAQ

Does the Pro Breeze dehumidifier work?

According to a North Carolina homeowner who’s used the Pro Breeze dehumidifier for about two years, it works, but it’s a small dehumidifier, so it will take a while to get rid of all the excess moisture in the air.

How much does it cost to run a Pro Breeze dehumidifier?

According to Pro Breeze’s website, the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier costs a penny per day to run (if left on for 24 hours).

What are the modes of the Pro Breeze dehumidifier?

The small Pro Breeze Dehumidifier only has an on and an off mode. Other Pro Breeze Dehumidifiers have adjustable humidity settings and fan speeds.

What Other Reviewers/Experts Had to Say

At the time of this writing, the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier had a 3.8 rating on Amazon, with about half of the nearly 51,000 reviews being five-star ratings.

“For the money and the size of the space I’ve inhabited (either a small dorm room or a 1-bedroom apartment) it’s worked very well,” says five-star Amazon reviewer Hannah. “It’s also genuinely quiet, and I like that it shuts of automatically when full. I’m very happy with the unit for what I spent on it.”

Many of the negative reviews come from people who say the machine lasted a short period.

“Purchased one of the dehumidifiers and it quit working after two or three months,” says one-star Amazon reviewer RockHound. “I immediately contacted customer support who, by the way, were amazing to work with, and they shipped me out a replacement. Well, within approximately one month the replacement stop working. This time when I reached out to customer support, they told me to just not to bother about providing proof of anything and they just refunded my money.”

The reviewer went on to say that a third one also broke within a few weeks of arriving at their house.

I’ve used it for two summers in humid North Carolina, and it’s withstood the test of time.

Pro Breeze Dehumidifier vs Gocheer Upgraded Air Dehumidifier

The Gocheer Upgraded Air Dehumidifier was our top pick for small dehumidifiers, and for a good reason. It only costs $20 more than the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier and is quieter, has a larger water tank capacity (68 ounces compared to the Pro Breeze’s 16-ounce tank, comes with a continuous drain hose option and a sleep mode (which the Pro Breeze does not have).

The Pro Breeze is much simpler to operate than the Gocheer. The latter has multiple buttons that could be confusing for those unfamiliar with dehumidifiers, whereas the Pro Breeze only has an on/off switch.

Final Verdict

The Pro Breeze Dehumidifier is one of those products that is, objectively, not the best. I don’t mean it’s bad, because it’s not. So long as you’re only using it in small spaces that don’t require a continuous drainage hose option. Many Amazon customers have complaints about its long-term durability, but as someone who’s used it for two years, I can attest that it gets the job done.

Are there better options out there? Yes. For people on a very tight budget, the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier will still get the job done.

Where to Buy the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier

ANTHONY O REILLY/FAMILY HANDYMAN

$39.98 at Walmart

$39.98 at Amazon

$44.99 at The Home Depot

Pro Breeze Portable Dehumidifier

$39.98 at Walmart

$39.98 at Amazon

$44.99 at The Home Depot

The Pro Breeze Dehumidifier is available through Amazon for less than $50. It is also available at Walmart and The Home Depot for the same price.

The post Pro Breeze Dehumidifier Review: My Honest Thoughts After a Year of Testing appeared first on Family Handyman.

We’ve testedmany air purifiers over the years, from the compactBlueair Air Purifierto the whole-roomNuWave OxyPure Air Purifier and dozens in between. But onereally stands out among the rest: the Mila Air Purifier.

We were so intrigued by this smart appliance that we couldn’t wait to get our hands on it to see if it actually worked as promised. Expert product reviewer Pamela Bondurant set this air purifier up in her home to see how much it would really improve her air quality. She then shared her findings, which we compiled for this dedicated Mila Air Purifier review. Here’s everything you need to know.

What is the Mila Air Purifier?

The Mila Air Purifier is a smart HEPA air purifier that removes up to 99.97% of airborne particles as small as 0.3 microns. This includes things like smoke, allergens and house dust. It also has a dual-flow carbon filter, which removes odors and VOCs (volatile organic compounds) from paints, carpets and pressed wood. In addition to monitoring the air quality in your home, the Mila also monitors carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, humidity levels and room temperature. All of this information is easily monitored via the LED screen and the free Mila Cares app.

Unlike other air purifiers, which use a one-size-fits-all filter approach, the Mila Air Purifier offers seven different filters to address specific needs. For example, there’s a basic filter, a filter designed to target allergens and even a heavy-duty carbon filter for homes with pets.

The Mila Air Purifier is only available in one size and style. It’s smallmeasuring 10 inches long by 10 inches wide by 14 inches high and weighing under 10 poundsbut mighty, designed to work in rooms up to 1,000 square feet.

PAMELA BONDURANT/FAMILY HANDYMAN

Shop on Mila Cares

$299.99 at Amazon

we tried it

Mila Air Purifier

A stylish design and customization options make this smart device a worthy addition to your home.

Shop on Mila Cares

$299.99 at Amazon

Mila Air Purifier Product Features

The Mila Air Purifier may be small, but it’s loaded with features that make it one of the best air purifiers on the market.

Room Coverage

According to the brand’s website, the Mila Air Purifier is ideal for rooms up to 1,000 square feet. This smart appliance learns the size of each space and automatically adjusts to ensure the same level of performance whether you place it in a small bedroom or large living room.

Modes

The Mila Air Purifier has several different modes. Through the device’s manual mode, you can set a deep clean mode, night mode, white noise mode, energy saving mode, quiet mode, bedtime mode, and wake-up settings. Bondurant, who tested each one, notes that each mode worked well. However, she points out that if the device is in quiet mode, it may take longer to clean the room.

Another option is the automagic mode. In this mode, the Mila determines optimal settings based on room type, time of day, sensor readings and personal preferences.

Filters

While most air purifiers have one generic filter, Mila offers seven different filters to meet your home’s specific needs. Each option has a HEPA filter that targets certain types of particles and allergens. Some options also have carbon filters for odor and VOC filtration. Filters should be replaced every six months and vary in price, ranging from $59 to $99.

• The Basic Breather: This filter is designed for those who don’t have any specific needs and just want cleaner, fresher air. It has a HEPA12 filter, which is best for things like pollen, dust and smoke. It does not have a carbon filter.
• The Big Sneeze: Designed for people with allergies, this option is equipped with a HEPA13 filter that traps pollen, dander and dust. It does not have a carbon filter.
• The Rookie Parent: New parents will appreciate this one, which has a HEPA12 filter and a carbon filter that handles VOCs, gasses and odorsyes, including those from stinky diapers.
• The Critter Cuddler: This filter is a must for anyone with pets. It has a HEPA13 filter, a carbon filter specifically designed to handle ammonia removal and a washable Mila Sock for larger particles and fur.
• The Home Wrecker:Making some home improvements? A HEPA12 filter and a dual layer of 1.96 pounds of modified granular carbon specifically target formaldehyde and odors from things like paint.
• The Mama-To-Be: A HEPA14 filter targets the tiniest particles and pollution, while a carbon filter eliminates odors and VOCs.
• The Overreactor: This bad boy boasts a HEPA14 filter and a carbon filter with 1.25 pounds of modified granular carbon specifically targeted for formaldehyde.

How We Tested It

The Mila Air Purifier arrived at Bondurant’s Florida home in a sturdy, colorful box complete with instructions and a QR code to retrieve the app printed right on the inside. The purifier itself was fully assembled and neatly tucked into a cloth bag. Bondurant paired the device to her phone and set it to ‘automagic’ mode. The Mila calibrated its sensors and got straight to work.

“It did not indicate that the house was very polluted but it still ran for a bit,” explains Bondurant. “It did show the indoor temperature and humidity and it matched what my thermostat was also saying, which was interesting and comforting to me.”

Burning Incense

The real test came in the morning when Bondurant’s incense kicked the Mila into high gear.

“In the mornings I burn incense and usually within about three minutes of the incense being lit the device would come on,” she explains. “The AQI would go up from zero to the max level. It would stay at that level in my room until the incense went out.”

According to Bondurant, the device would run on full blast in automagic mode for about 30 to 45 minutes after the incense was out. By the end of its run-time, her home was back down to zero AQI. In other words, her air was as fresh and clean as it was before she lit her incense.

Cooking

“I also noticed that it would come on pretty quickly when starting to cook even if I wasn’t cooking anything too crazy,” adds Bondurant. “Just turning on the toaster would alert the Mila and it would start cleaning.”

After it cleaned, the Mila went into standby mode. Bondurant notes that during this time, the Mila runs very quietly, and the device’s screen says, It smells like victory. Woohoo, this room has been particulate-free for eight hours. Or, however, how many hours it’s been particulate-free. Cute!

Various Modes

Bondurant points out that some modes are more obvious than others. “I couldn’t really tell what the difference was on some modes, but it definitely came on if I told it to go into deep clean mode from the app. The device would start cleaning.”

Different Filters

Additionally, Bondurant notes that there wasn’t an easy way for her to test all three filters she received over the course of a week. “I don’t see anything on the filters that I’ve used for testing for almost a week. So far, they are not showing any signs of being used,” she says. As a Florida resident, Bondurant doesn’t often battle tons of dust in her home and, therefore, could not speak to whether or not this air purifier helped with dust. However, she feels confident that the Mila Air Purifier would help curb dust if she lived in a drier climate.

At $349, this air purifier isn’t the most expensive device on the market. It also isn’t the cheapest. That said, Bondurant insists that it’s a worthwhile purchase. “At $349, the air purifier sounds like a lot of money,” she admits. “But based on it’s capabilities and my experience, and add in the app control and attractive design, I think it’s a very good value.”

Pros:

• Customizable filters
• Informative phone app
• Sleek, modern design
• Intuitive automagic mode
• Quiet, nighttime and white noise modes
• Carbon monoxide sensors

Cons:

• Filters cannot be washed or reused
• Control panel on the device is not as useful as the app

Why You Should Trust Us

As shopping and home experts, our job is to help you find products that will improve the quality of your life and home. Our editors and testers are homeowners and apartment dwellers who know how important it is to feel safe and healthy at home. Many of us are also allergy sufferers who know just how life-changing clean air can be.

We’ve tested dozens of products designed to improve the overall air quality of your home, including thebest dehumidifiers for crawlspacesand the popularFrigidaire dehumidifier.We’ve also tested our fair share of air purifiers, including the Levoit 400S, Honeywell True HEPA, and Aura Air Purifier.

For this article, we sent the Mila Air Purifier to one of our expert product reviewers to see how it improved the air quality in her home. She immediately noticed cleaner, fresher air as the Mila worked hard to eliminate odors that arose from incense and cooking.

FAQ

How long do Mila air filters last?

The filter is supposed to last six months; depending on your environment, it may need to be replaced sooner. Filters are not designed to be cleaned and reused. You can extend the life of your filter by purchasing a washable Mila Sock. This works as a pre-filter to capture larger particles and fur.

Does Mila Air Purifier get rid of mold?

The Mila Air Purifier monitors humidity levels and lets you know if and when you are at risk for mold. Its HEPA filters also work to remove mold spores from the air. However, it does not treat active mold that is already present in your home. A good dehumidifier will also help prevent mold and mildew growth.

How much does it cost to run a Mila Air Purifier?

Since you have to replace your Mila filter every six months, there are some costs associated with running your Mila Air Purifier. Depending on which filter you choose, you can expect to spend anywhere from $59 to $99 every six months. However, Mila Cares has an auto-refill option that will help you save up to 30%.

What Other Reviewers Had to Say

“I plugged it in and left to run errands. When I returned, it was like Ive never breathed before, the air felt crisp and beautiful,” five-star reviewer Monky Kid writes. “This feels like a luxury product every step of the way, from the cute packaging to the thoughtful and fun design of the app. I have full control over everything Mila does and can set it to clean extra before bed or while Im away. The app also gives me thoughtful notifications about the air quality in my area as well so I am protected inside and out!”

Erin S, another five-star reviewer, has been using the Mila Air Purifier for over a year now and has even invested in a second device.

“It definitely pulls dust and smells out of the air,” Erin explains. “I like being able to set routines so it kicks on my white noise an hour before bed and turns off when I need to be up in the morning. I can override the auto if I want more air movement during the day or Im up later. When I have a migraine, I crank it way up, and it helps block out everything else. This is on my short list of tech that I truly love. Customer service is amazing, too.”

And five-star reviewer Kevin Dunne credits the Mila Air Purifier with saving his life. Literally!

“We installed this unit a week before we turned our heating (gas boiler) on for the season,” Dunne explains. “The boiler is in the basement and the air purifier is on the 2nd floor. Within an hour, the air purifier started detecting carbon monoxide. The level of carbon monoxide kept rising. When it reached 150 PPM we turned off the boiler and the level of carbon monoxide dropped to almost zero within 10 minutes. We were able to use this data to get our HVAC company to come out and service the boiler.”

Mila vs Dyson Air Purifier

Compared to other air purifiers we’ve tested, the Mila Air Purifier is the only one that offers customized filters and settings. It’s also the only air purifier with a carbon monoxide sensor to keep you and your loved ones safe.

At $349, the Mila costs slightly more than half the price of the Dyson Cool Link air purifier. And depending on the filter you choose, it may be more effective. For instance, the Mila’s Overreactor filter removes 97.89% of VOCs, including formaldehyde and ammonia, whereas the Dyson Cool Link removes 94.86%. That said, it’s worth pointing out that the Mila filters without carbon do not remove any VOCs.

Additionally, the Dyson’s futuristic design may not match the aesthetic of some homes. The Mila, on the other hand, blends seamlessly with most aesthetics.

Final Verdict

If you’re in the market for an air purifier, then the Mila Air Purifier is an excellent choice. Of course, you could just buy an air quality monitor, but this smart device can be customized to suit your individual needs and is sensitive enough to detect odors throughout your home. Moreover, it has a sleek modern design that will blend in with any home aesthetic.

Where to Buy the Mila Air Purifier

The Mila Air Purifier can be purchased directly from Mila Cares or from Amazon for under $400. Filters are sold separately and range from $59 to $99, depending on which one you choose. Once your unit arrives, no assembly is required. All you’ll have to do is insert the filter, plug it in, and you’ll be breathing better in no time.

PAMELA BONDURANT/FAMILY HANDYMAN

Shop on Mila Cares

$299.99 at Amazon

we tried it

Mila Air Purifier

The Mila Air Purifier monitors air quality, humidity, temperature, carbon dioxide and will even alert you if carbon monoxide is present.

Shop on Mila Cares

$299.99 at Amazon

The post We Tried the Mila Air Purifier and Our House Has Never Smelled So Fresh appeared first on Family Handyman.

One of my proudest DIY moments was when I first replaced a light fixture. Dealing with electricity comes with equal parts intimidation and fear. The thought of dealing with the connections of electric wires felt insurmountable and challenging.

Boy, was I wrong! While installing or changing a basic light fixture requires a high regard for safety and some attention to detail, it is not complicated. Nor does it require expensive tools. When it comes to electricity, there is one rule you cannot break or deviate from: Cut off the power to the source and test it before you touch it.

Although I have gained experience with electrical work, I would not consider myself quick or extremely skilled at it. Because we wanted to install our outdoor light fixture in a place without a junction box or wiring and intended for it to be connected to its own switch inside the entryway, I called an electrician. Burkhardt sent out a licensed electrician to install the box, run the wiring from outside through the walls in our office and to the entryway, and expand the box in the entryway to accommodate an additional switch, all in just a few hours. It would have taken me much longer to do and probably included patching more holes in my drywall. By calling, I turned this into a few-hour project rather than a full weekend project.

Choosing a porch light fixture

When choosing a light fixture for your porch, consider how much it will be exposed to moisture from the elements. When shopping for a porch light fixture, you find exterior grade light fixtures and damp-rated light fixtures. Choose accordingly if your light fixture will be exposed to all the weather elements, use and Exterior grade. If your light fixture will live under a covered porch that doesnt receive sheets of rain, you may opt for a damp-rated fixture. It is a judgement call, when it comes to electricity outdoors go for the best protection you can find. Look for a light fixture with a universal mounting bar or mounting plate to ensure it is compatible with whichever junction box was installed.

Safety considerations

As with all electrical projects, ensure that the power to the area you are working in is turned off at the breaker before beginning work. Use a non-contact voltage connector, insulated tools and a non-metal ladder during installation. And, if at all possible, choose to do your installation on a dry day. The last thing you want to do is install a light fixture when it’s raining.

Cut the hole

After determining where you wish to hang your outdoor light, use a hole saw to cut a hole through the soffit panels and OSB underlayment into the cavity above the porch.

The post How To Install a Porch Light Fixture appeared first on Family Handyman.

Because of the home’s age, it frequently leaks. Despite several upgrades over the years, it’s still drafty in the winter and damp during the Minnesota summers, especially in the basement. I struggle with combinations of humidifiers in the winter and dehumidifiers in the summer to maintain humidity control in my shop.

Having more than thirty years of experience in home remodeling and repair has allowed me to see the effects of humidity in houses that aren’t protected by dehumidifiers. In severe cases, I’ve found situations that included material deterioration and mold occurrencesMinnesota’s crazy weather can do that with ease.

I tested the $150 Hisense dehumidifier, which proved to be a worthy opponent to the excessive moisture in my space. Check out the full 4-1-1 on this dehumidifier to see if it’s the right choice for you.

Want to see all the dehumidifiers I’ve tried? Check out the best dehumidifiers for basements.

What is the Hisense dehumidifier?

VIA MERCHANT

$149.99 at Amazon

$259 at Lowe's

Hisense Dehumidifier

$149.99 at Amazon

$259 at Lowe's

The Hisense 50-pint dehumidifier claims to control humidity in a home as large as 4,500 square feet. My basement and my home combined are not quite 2,000 square feet. However, with the level of performance I demand from the dehumidifiers I use for woodworking, it’s a pretty fair comparison.

Honestly, I’m a bit doubtful that any of the machines I tested could dehumidify a large home on their own without another method of circulating the air; they’re simply not large enough to move air through that big of a space.

This is where the Hisense makes sense (hehe, get it?). Costing up to $100 less than more well-known brand names, the Hisense is affordable enough to put one on each floor of the house (if needed). I would expect the Hisense dehumidifier to handle a single story with ease, with or without a wood shop involved.

Compact yet full-sized, this machine offers a generously sized condensation tank, which minimizes the need to empty it constantly. The machine also has the ability to bypass the reservoir with a drain hose to avoid the task altogether. It’s relatively heavy at 40 pounds or so, and the handles for carrying could be designed better. However, it’s on wheels for easy transportation, and it’s one of the quietest dehumidifiers that I’ve come across.

Hisense Dehumidifier Features

The Hisense dehumidifier has most of the same comfort and convenience features as more costly models. It features a 50-pint reservoir to catch the water it pulls from the surrounding air. The unit also contains a bypass connection with a hose attachment to avoid having to empty the reservoir when it’s full. If you choose to use the reservoir, it has an automatic shut-off-when-full feature to keep water from going everywhere.

The model’s other features include seemingly durable wheels for everyday use if you need to move the machine around. Its molded carrying handles seem designed more for looks than functionality. That said, they worked okay for me to get the unit up and down the stairs to the basement.

Hisense did the filter right on this dehumidifier. It features a micro-mesh design placed directly on the back of the machine for easy access when it’s time to clean it. What I like best is that removing the filter exposes the coil fins. While many dehumidifier models conceal the fins within the machine, making them hard to clean if the task becomes necessary, the Hisense makes cleaning easy with a coil fin brush.

From an operational standpoint, the Hisense dehumidifier features automatic operation, sleep mode, timer, digital display and humidity settings, a filter cleaning reminder indicator, plus high- and low-speed operation. The low speed of the unit is extremely quiet, while the high-speed setting is roughly as loud as that of a compact dehumidifier.

How We Tested It

The testing process for dehumidifiers in my home and woodworking shop seemingly never ends. In efforts to control humidity for this purpose, I’ve gone through a number of them over the years. For this review, I used the Hisense dehumidifier for two weeks, including one week with the reservoir and one week with the drain hose.

I set to the lowest possible setting of 30% humidity. Using the reservoir, I had to empty the machine at least once per day after a period of heavy rainfall. A few days during testing required me to empty the reservoir once during the day and again before bed to ensure it ran all night.

I liked the machine better with the drain hose attached, which meant I could set it and forget it, like you can with a self-draining dehumidifier. My only complaints are that the filter-cleaning indicator would turn on once every couple of days, even when it didn’t appear to require cleaning, and the reservoir, while functional, seemed somewhat flimsy, including the handle. While it’s likely just fine, I would have liked something that felt a little more beefy. Other than that, it ran like a champ, hovering at between 30% and 32% humidity anytime I checked.

Pros

• Super quiet low-speed operation
• Large capacity water reservoir
• Reservoir bypass option for continuous operation
• Heavy-duty power cord
• Budget-friendly pricing
• EnergyStar certified
• Accessible coil fins for deep cleaning ability

Cons

• Carrying handles could be designed better
• Water reservoir handle and construction are a little flimsy
• 4,500-square-foot capacity seems a bit overstated

FAQ

What should I set my Hisense dehumidifier to?

The humidity setting you choose for your dehumidifier depends on what feels comfortable to you. While many dehumidifiers can be set as low as 30%, some homeowners find that setting too low, and the air becomes too dry for comfort. For those who live in humid locations, a setting of 50% is usually adequate to feel a difference from the outdoors. In any case, for your home’s well-being, choose a setting between 30% and 50% for the best results.

What is the continuous mode on a Hisense dehumidifier?

Understanding what a dehumidifier does can help you understand continuous mode on your Hisense machine. When operating your dehumidifier at a particular humidity setting, the machine will stop removing water from the air when it reaches the desired level.

In continuous mode, the machine will keep running to remove as much water vapor from the air as it can, regardless of the humidity setting. The feature is useful when trying to dry out a room or an area that’s been affected by large amounts of humidity for a short time.

How do I get my Hisense dehumidifier to drain through a hose?

Getting your Hisense dehumidifier to drain through a hose is a simple matter of connecting a hose with a garden hose fitting onto the provided drain attachment. The fitting is found behind a small access door on the left side of the machine and is visible when the water reservoir is removed. There’s no need to remove the reservoir or make any other adjustments once the hose is attached.

What Other Reviewers/Experts Had to Say

Of Lowe’s customers who purchased and reviewed the Hisense Dehumidifier, 60% gave the machine five stars. Positive reviews cite the dehumidifier’s efficient operation even after up to five years. However, some negative reviews point to a seemingly common problem with the unit.

Several customers complain of receiving an E9 code in the machine’s display within or after a year of operation or so. The E9 code means the machine can’t communicate with the humidity sensor, rendering the machine mostly unusable.

While the sensor is replaceable, it’s likely more trouble than most homeowners want to deal with. Fortunately, this situation, while noted in the reviews, seems to affect only a very small percentage of units sold.

Hisense Dehumidifier vs GE Dehumidifier

The Hisense 50-Pint 2-Speed dehumidifier is a full-sized unit designed for use throughout a home for overall humidity control. The GE dehumidifier is more of a one-room-at-a-time model. While both products appear in our review of the best dehumidifiers for basements, the GE model is perhaps better suited for small spaces.

The GE dehumidifier has a 20-pint capacity compared to the Hisense’s 50-pint bucket. However, you can attach a drain hose for continuous draining. The GE offers an auto defrost option, which isn’t available on the Hisense. However, the two machines are really best for different types of humidity-control needs.

If you’re looking to effectively control the humidity in one room at a time, the GE is more portable and efficient than the Hisense. On the other hand, if you need a dehumidifying workhorse for a large area, consider the Hisense.

Read more about other dehumidifiers we’ve tested, including the Midea Dehumidifier, Frigidaire Dehumidifier, and Eva-Dry Dehumidifier, the latter of which we think is one of the best small dehumidifiers.

Final Verdict

While there may be some concerns about the Hisense reviews stating trouble with the E9 codes, the problem is limited to a small number of machines in the big picture. My testing revealed the machine to be hard-working enough to handle my needs for controlling humidity in my woodworking shop, which isn’t an easy task.

Customers looking for a powerful dehumidifier that can handle big jobs at a budget-friendly price might do well choosing the Hisense dehumidifier.

I wouldn’t recommend the Hisense for doing the work of one of the best crawl space dehumidifiersthey have a hard job. But because of how powerful the Hisense is, I recommend attaching a drain hose to it for continuous draining, especially in homes with high humidity levels.

Where to Buy the Hisense Dehumidifier

VIA MERCHANT

$149.99 at Amazon

$259 at Lowe's

Hisense Dehumidifier

$149.99 at Amazon

$259 at Lowe's

The Hisense dehumidifier is available at Lowe’s and Amazon for $152 to $214.

The post Hisense Dehumidifier Review: A Budget-Friendly Option to Keep Humidity at Bay appeared first on Family Handyman.

That stench was likely caused by excess humidity, which led to mold and mildew, which can also present health risks. There were very few ways to address this issue back then without extensive and expensive repairs, but luckily, that’s not the case now.

Today, you can stick an Eva-Dry dehumidifier in there and save your clothes and closet. Because it doesn’t use electricity and is reusable, you can place it in safes to keep firearms, collectibles, or other items from being damaged by humidity.

I’ve used the Eva-Dry dehumidifier for nearly a year, and to be honest, I’m obsessed with it. My clothes have never smelled fresher, and at under $25, it’s a no-brainer if you live in a humid area or need to keep moisture out of a confined area.

What is the Eva-Dry dehumidifier?

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$14.97 at Amazon

Eva-Dry Mini Dehumidifier

$14.97 at Amazon

Eva-Dry dehumidifiers come in different shapes for various purposes, including some self-drainingmodels, but today, we’re looking at the Eva-Dry Renewable dehumidifier. It’s a little smaller than a Nintendo Switch or a Nintendo DSif you’re old school, making it easy to store in safes or closets.

The renewable aspect refers to the non-toxic crystallized silica gel that attracts and absorbs extra moisture in the air without electricity and can be reused. Once the beads in the center display turn from orange to green, you plug it in to heat the unit to get rid of the absorbed moisture. It can then be used again, thus repeating the cycle.

It can work in spaces up to 333 square feet, which is larger than my last New York City apartment. So, it could even be used as abasement dehumidifier for some smaller homes. For this Eva-Dry review, I used onein a small bathroom and the other in a closet.

RELATED: Ninesky Dehumidifier Review

Eva Dry Dehumidifier Features

Let’s take a look at some of the most notable features of this nifty dehumidifier.

Renewable

The Eva-Dry dehumidifier uses crystallized silica gel to absorb four to six ounces of moisture from the air. The company claims it can be reused for about 10 years by heating the gel about every month to release the stored water (more on that in a second).

These gels are sometimes used in cat litter to reduce odors, and they can absorb up to 40% of their weight in water vapor. They capture the humidity by storing it in microscopic capillaries and holding it there until releasedin the case of Eva-Dry, by being heated when plugged into a standard outlet. It takes about 10 hours to completely dry it out, at which point it can be reused wherever you had it. Be warned: The unit will get hot when charging, so it’s best not to touch the front of it.

The gel is orange and turns green when it’s at its maximum capacity and needs to be plugged in.

One thing to keep in mind is that you cannot customize how much moisture the gels absorb like you can with electric dehumidifiers.

Compact

The Eva-Dry dehumidifier is the smallest we’ve tested, yet it can work in rooms up to 333 square feet, about the same as some electronic models out there (reminder: this only uses electricity to release the water vapors). This allows it to be stashed in a corner, on a shelf, or in most safes.

Although they’re technically sealed, humidity can still enter safes and cause rust or mold/mildew growth, which could damage what’s inside. For example, the inner parts of a firearm could rust if exposed to humidity, possibly causing it to malfunction or misfire.

You could even use it as a crawl space dehumidifier.

Long-Lasting

I know one of your top questions is, “How long does the Eva-Dry dehumidifier last?” To be honest, I don’t know. The company states it can hold anywhere from 4 to 6 ounces of water. For reference, that’s about three-quarters of a cup. I’ll get into how long it took to get there in a little bit, but the short answer is, “It depends where you put it.” The company claims it can last for 20 to 30 days.

Cordless

For my money, one of the best features of the Eva-Dry dehumidifier is that it’s cordless. You might be asking, “How do you plug it in?” There’s a plug located on the back that can be used when it’s time to heat the silica gel. This makes it compact and portable, and because it doesn’t use electricity to run (only when drying out), it is 100% quiet.

How We Tested It

I originally tested the Eva-Dry dehumidifier when researching our best small dehumidifiers roundup, and I loved it so much I bought another one to use elsewhere around the house. I’ve had one in the master bedroom closet and the other in the laundry room.

I wrote down when I first placed one of the units in their respective location and then marked the date when the silica gel turned from orange to green, indicating when it had absorbed all the moisture.

As you could probably guess, the one in the laundry room needed to be recharged much quicker than the one in the closet. The former only took about five days, and the latter lasted about three weeks to a month, depending on the weather.

It’s hard to measure this, but I’ve also kept track of how “fresh” the closet has smelled and felt, and I can tell you there’s been a considerable change. We live in the suburbs of Charlotte, NC, where we’re sweating harder than a snowman in Phoenix from May to September due to the excess humidity. To be clear, it’s not going to provide relief the way my Midea dehumidifier does, but without it, I’d have damp clothes.

I prefer to line-dry most of my laundry, which is pretty difficult with all that excess water already in the air. Since using the Eva-Dry Renewable dehumidifier, my clothes have dried quicker and more thoroughly.

Lastly, I timed how long it took to heat the unit and turn the silica gel from green back to orange so it could go back in its place. It was generally around the 10-hour mark advertised by the company, giving or taking an hour depending on the temperature of the place where you place it.

Another suggestion for a dehumidifier for larger spaces? Check out our Frigidaire dehumidifier review.

FAQ

How long do Eva-Dry dehumidifiers last?

Eva-Dry says its renewable dehumidifiers can last about a month before needing to be plugged in to release the water, though it can be shorter or longer than that depending on how humid it is in the area you put it.

Can you leave Eva-Dry plugged in?

No, it’s advised to unplug the Eva-Dry Renewable dehumidifier after it has released all of the stored water vapor so you don’t damage the silica gels or the unit, which gets hot when plugged in.

How does the Eva-Dry dehumidifier work?

The Eva-Dry Renewable dehumidifier uses crystallized silica gel that attracts, absorbs and stores water vapors using microscopic capillaries that can hold up to 40% of their weight. The gels turn from orange to green when full and will hold onto the moisture until it’s released via the heat produced by plugging the unit in. Once all the water’s gone and the gels are orange, the dehumidifier can be placed back in its original spot (like a musty closet).

What Other Reviewers/Experts Had to Say

The Eva-Dry Renewable dehumidifier has a 4.2 average rating on Amazon, with more than 20,000 of the nearly 33,000 reviews being five stars. “Its rapid, effective, and energy-efficient design has been a welcome change, as it quickly removes excess moisture from the air with no leaks, spills, or unpleasant odors,” says Florida resident and five-star reviewer CZDM.

Negative reviewers said the unit didn’t perform as advertised, with some showing pictures of hardened spices or other signs of excess moisture in areas where they had placed an Eva-Dry dehumidifier.

“[I] put [it] back in the closet, this time adding another dehumidifier bag that I bought from Home Depot, and in two weeks that bag was full of water, but this little unit still shows the same orange window like the day I received it,” says one-star customer reviewer Shaun Meyer.

Eva-Dry Dehumidifier vs Pro Breeze Dehumidifier

Pro Breeze produces and sells air conditioners, heaters, air purifiers and dehumidifiers, like Eva-Dry. The brand doesn’t have a cordless, renewable option like Eva-Dry, though it has several small dehumidifiers. I’ve used the Pro Breeze Electric Mini dehumidifier, and think it’s another great choice for small spaces.

Right off the bat, the Pro Breeze has a larger capacity than the Eva-Dry renewable, capable of holding up to 8.45 ounces of water, while the Eva-Dry can hold anywhere from 4 to 6 ounces.

The Pro Breeze is good for spaces up to 205 square feet, which is actually smaller than the Eva-Dry’s 333-square-foot coverage area. Still, I think there’s a case to be made for the Pro Breeze because it’s more efficient at its job.

You’ll feel relief from the humidity much quicker with the Pro Breeze than the Eva-Dry, because the electric unit is more powerful at sucking in water vapors than the crystallized silica gel. So if you’re looking for a dehumidifier because it’s uncomfortable in a room or RV/camper, go for the Pro Breeze. If you’re just looking to keep excess moisture from ruining a small area like a closet or safe (or you’re on a tight budget), the Eva-Dry is your pick.

By the way, consider complementing your dehumidifier with a compact air purifier like the Blueair Air Purifier to eliminate other airborne nuisances.

Final Verdict

There are very few products that I outright recommend to virtually everyone, but I can’t think of a single person (minus those in climates where excess humidity simply isn’t a concern) who shouldn’t buy the Eva-Dry Renewable dehumidifier. The cordless, compact, renewable and energy efficient. Most importantly, it’s incredibly effective at its job, at least in my experience, with two of them across two different apartments and one home.

It’s not ideal for making huge rooms more comfortable, but it can prevent excess moisture from ruining clothes, firearms, or collectibles sensitive to water vapors.

Where to Buy the Eva Dry Dehumidifier

The Eva-Dry Renewable dehumidifier is available on Amazon for less than $25. It is also available at Home Depot for the same price.

The post Over 30,000 People Love the Eva-Dry Mini Dehumidifier—Here’s Why It’s a Gamechanger for Musty Closets appeared first on Family Handyman.

Using a Non-Contact Voltage Tester Incorrectly

Mistake: Misusing your tester.

Electricians always carry non-contact voltage testers with them, and you should have one, too. They’re inexpensive and easy to use, and they help keep you safe when doing DIY electrical work.

Solution: Test. Use. Verify.

First, test the tester by holding it to a known live circuit, like a powered appliance or lamp cord. Or, insert it into a receptacle (use the smaller slot, which is the hot side). The tester should light up and/or beep. Locate the circuit you’ll be working on and turn off the breaker. Use the tester to verify the circuit’s off, then check the tester on the same live circuit as before to confirm it functioned correctly.

The post 15 Electrical Mistakes Homeowners Make appeared first on Family Handyman.